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Losing my brakes - front/rear adjuster keeps blowing

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16 Apr 2023 17:16 - 16 Apr 2023 17:47 #248623 by CFJimny
I have a tweaked Jimny - I got very lucky and bought it from a mechanic who had made it perfect for off-road.  I keep it on our farm and it never goes anywhere else - it's a work horse that copes with very steep hills.

Unfortunately, one of the mods done by the mechanic was bringing a copper brake line up into the cabin in front of the drivers seat with a manual pressure adjuster to balance braking between front and rear.  I've had two blow now, weeping brake fluid and leaving me without anything other than 1st gear and the hand brake. Awkward.

Should I buy a third adjustor (I don't drive above 20mph so can't see the point in the device) or is there a way I can remove the adjustor and fit some form of connector to link the copper pipes up strongly?

Any ideas please?  
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Last edit: 16 Apr 2023 17:47 by CFJimny.

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16 Apr 2023 22:59 #248636 by yakuza
Not sure how This is connected but I assume it is Just to reduce the Flow to the rear brakes.
Looks like an air valve though.
The drifting guys got valves for this that can take the pressure.
I would see if I could remove it below instead by replacing the cut brake line.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.
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17 Apr 2023 04:24 #248639 by Lambert
If it's not a road vehicle I would suggest removing the valve. If it is a road vehicle I would look at reinstating the back axle load sensing valve, assuming it is not an abs vehicle, its more likely to be reliable than a manual valve.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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17 Apr 2023 16:52 #248659 by facade
If you just remove it and join the pipes you will find the back wheels will lock when there is no load or you are going downhill. This is A Bad Thing, as the back end will try and overtake the front.

As Lambert says, there should be a load sensing valve above the back axle with a link down to the back axle.

There are two pipes from the master cylinder to the valve, one from the front circuit and one from the rear.
The further down the axle is, the less pressure reaches the brakes.
If the front circuit fails it overrides the valve and lets the rear brakes come on more.


If it is lifted then the link has to be extended. If the valve is there and all 3 pipes connected just join the pipes and it will be standard again


If it has working abs just join the pipes and the abs will stop the backs locking up.

If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there :)
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17 Apr 2023 19:54 - 17 Apr 2023 19:54 #248667 by CFJimny
"The drifting guys got valves for this that can take the pressure" - Thanks Yakuza. Replacing the valve with something which works seems the least effort.  Do you have a link to show the correct valves please?

 
Last edit: 17 Apr 2023 19:54 by CFJimny.

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17 Apr 2023 19:57 #248668 by CFJimny

If you just remove it and join the pipes you will find the back wheels will lock when there is no load or you are going downhill. This is A Bad Thing, as the back end will try and overtake the front.

As Lambert says, there should be a load sensing valve above the back axle with a link down to the back axle.

There are two pipes from the master cylinder to the valve, one from the front circuit and one from the rear.
The further down the axle is, the less pressure reaches the brakes.
If the front circuit fails it overrides the valve and lets the rear brakes come on more.


If it is lifted then the link has to be extended. If the valve is there and all 3 pipes connected just join the pipes and it will be standard again


If it has working abs just join the pipes and the abs will stop the backs locking up.
Thanks for that. Is there an easy way to join those pipes if all the right bits are in place?

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