2006 Jimny Clutch Release Bearing

It could be. I did find the same but doesn't say it fits the Jimny. I'll order one since it does look the same as the one in the diagram.
Thanks for looking.
Dave

did the part fit? did it work ok?

Started a couple of days ago after ordering some bits. Have everything off except the gearbox and all bell housing bolts are loosened ready - 2 were already loose. I bought a scissor type transmission jack which turned up yesterday.
Hoping to get gearbox off today.
Will report back.
Dave

OK I removed the gearbox this afternoon. I couldn't have managed without a transmission jack. As others have said, it's tight and I removed the clutch to get enough room to drop the gearbox. I could have changed the bearing and clip in situ but I wanted to removed the clutch for inspection anyway. Glad I did as the flywheel was a bit dirty. 
Both clips 6 & 8 were actually fitted. I couldn't see clip 6 through the clutch cdable aperture but it was fitted. Both clips seemed to have lost their strength however. The release bearing was only weakly retained to the fork. The new clip 6 was the same but stronger and retains the release bearing to the fork more securely. See attached pics.
Also the old clip 8 (behind the dome) didn't provide much spring to hold the fork in it's resting place, whereas the new clip 8 is stronger. So the fork is refitted to the gearbox and it seems improved (less wobbly) but it will be Sunday or early next week before I can refit everything and prove it's fixed. Release bearing was OK but fitted a new one since I'd bought one.
Just to confirm:-
PN. 23241-78A20 is clip 8 (clip release fork) and is listed in some places for the Jimny.
PN. 23231-81A20 is clip 6 (clip release bearing). It's listed in some places for a Suzuki Carry Van but when I rang Sims Suzuki they confirmed it fitted the Jimny which it does.
I've got another question. I stupidly removed the clutch without taking notice of which way round the plate was fitted. It's a Blueprint clutch not LUK as the seller said. It doesn't say which way faces the engine. Anyone know which way round it's supposed to fit - see pictures?
Thanks for the help. Will update again once everything is back together.
Regards
Dave

 

The driven plate usually only goes one way round. Usually the bulky part faces the g/box but try both ways. It will be obvious as it will not physically fit.

The fiddly bit is to get the plate central so that the g/box input shaft slides easily through the splined section and locates into the crankshaft spigot bearing. DONT FORCE IT. Prior to refitting the box, put it into first gear and as you push the box into place turn the output shaft so the splines engage. I made up two dowels from old bolts that I screwed onto the engine to use as locaters to centralise the box. This made it a lot easier to ease the box into place.

Roger

Great. Thanks for the tip on refitting.
Dave

LM42 wrote: you can change the clutch without removing the gearbox from the car, i did my brothers and mine, never did a clutch before!
 

Was this on a Jimny or any other front engined, rear wheel drive car?  Nine times out of ten, the clutch sits between the engne and the gearbox, and one or the other has to be removed to get access to the clutch, so, yes, you can change the clutch without removing the gearbox from the car, but nine out of ten times, the only way it can be done is by removing the engine.

The gearbox is usally easier to remove, so that's the most common way to deal with it.

Having said that, I've changed several clutches without removing either the gearbox or the engine from the car, but everytime I've done it the vehicle in question was a classic Mini or one of it's derivatives which have the gearbox below the engine and the clutch outboard from the two.

On a personal note, I would always remove the g/box (Jimny style set up) as this would give me free access to the flywheel and the bellhousing for checking and cleaning.
It's a possibility that Suzuki improved or modified the two retention springs in the light of reported noise problems. Minor improvements such as this may not require a change in part number.

Roger

It's possible to detach the gearbox from the motor but not actually remove it from the car, it has some room to move back enough to get at the clutch. That said when mine was done the engine was coming out anyway to do the head gasket at the same time.

You can get the gearbox out, once you've removed the clutch, I had my gearbox rebuilt, so had to remove it. Admittedly I did mine with the car on its side, very easy, wouldn't recommend for a gen 4

Lambert wrote: It's possible to detach the gearbox from the motor but not actually remove it from the car, it has some room to move back enough to get at the clutch. That said when mine was done the engine was coming out anyway to do the head gasket at the same time.

We're splitting hairs here - at this point the gearbox is not attached to the vehicle in any way is it?

It's completely unbolted from the mounts, the jack shaft has been removed, the shift linkages disconnected - if you remove whatever is supporting it, it's going to fall to the ground.

I think the debate is just about what needs to be removed to do what.
When removing the gearbox it has to go straight backwards to get the gearbox shaft out of the clutch. At this point the rear of the gearbox is then above and behind the cross member. It won't drop out because the rear of the gearbox is nearly wedged in above the cross member. There is enough room to remove the clutch at this point and it seems you have to if you want the gerbox out. Fig.19 in the Guide. If you move the gearbox forward without removing the clutch it will not drop because the bell housing not drop past the clutch housing. When the clutch is removed the gearbox can be moved forward again so that the rear of the gearbox can drop past the cross member. It's still a little tight since the bell housing needs to very close the flywheel but now it will drop down past the space where the clutch was mounted.
I bolted the gearbox back on yesterday. Same in reverse. With the clutch off raise the gearbox up and push it back above the cross member. There is plenty of room to install the clutch. Then push the gearbox forwards into clutch and bolt onto the engine.
That's the only way I can see.
Regards
Dave