Diff locker for front axel

A couple of vids of car with auto-locking diffs in the front only:





Doesn't change the fact that there isn't an easy bolt-in option though

Busta wrote: Old thread on this same topic.

If a lockrite works as it should (e.g. locks when one wheel loses traction, unlocks when both have traction) then I can't see the problem? We're not talking about welding up the diff- A lockrite is not always locked, so wouldn't be the same as trying to turn with a locked ARB.

Actually a lockright works the other way around.. in normal driving it is locked and only when there is sufficient differential from inside to outside wheel it disengages... this is why they are called 'positive lockers'.. of course being axle deep in mud there will never be this differential which is why they are great in the back for off-roaders... I can imagine why it would be a nightmare to have one on a public road in the snow though!.. (but great fun in a car-park!)

Yellostreak wrote:

Busta wrote: Old thread on this same topic.

If a lockrite works as it should (e.g. locks when one wheel loses traction, unlocks when both have traction) then I can't see the problem? We're not talking about welding up the diff- A lockrite is not always locked, so wouldn't be the same as trying to turn with a locked ARB.

Actually a lockright works the other way around.. in normal driving it is locked and only when there is sufficient differential from inside to outside wheel it disengages... this is why they are called 'positive lockers'.. of course being axle deep in mud there will never be this differential which is why they are great in the back for off-roaders... I can imagine why it would be a nightmare to have one on a public road in the snow though!.. (but great fun in a car-park!)

Same difference! The diff always drives the slowest wheel, and locks when the speed of both wheels is the same (e.g. driving in a straight line). If you are turning a corner but have good grip, it will only drive the inside (slower) wheel. If this wheel starts to spin, when it reaches the speed of the outside wheel the diff will lock and both wheels are driven.

The biggest downside is that, unless you are driving dead straight on a consistent surface, it is always sending all the torque to one wheel. Essentially it is doubling the torque load on the axle compared to an open diff (which can never send more than half the total torque to one wheel).

It won't prevent you from steering as you still have an open diff in the back, and the wheels that are locked can be pointed to where you want to go. It's not the same as having both diffs locked, or even just a rear diff locked.

Busta wrote:

Yellostreak wrote:

Busta wrote: Old thread on this same topic.

If a lockrite works as it should (e.g. locks when one wheel loses traction, unlocks when both have traction) then I can't see the problem? We're not talking about welding up the diff- A lockrite is not always locked, so wouldn't be the same as trying to turn with a locked ARB.

Actually a lockright works the other way around.. in normal driving it is locked and only when there is sufficient differential from inside to outside wheel it disengages... this is why they are called 'positive lockers'.. of course being axle deep in mud there will never be this differential which is why they are great in the back for off-roaders... I can imagine why it would be a nightmare to have one on a public road in the snow though!.. (but great fun in a car-park!)

Same difference! The diff always drives the slowest wheel, and locks when the speed of both wheels is the same (e.g. driving in a straight line). If you are turning a corner but have good grip, it will only drive the inside (slower) wheel. If this wheel starts to spin, when it reaches the speed of the outside wheel the diff will lock and both wheels are driven.

The biggest downside is that, unless you are driving dead straight on a consistent surface, it is always sending all the torque to one wheel. Essentially it is doubling the torque load on the axle compared to an open diff (which can never send more than half the total torque to one wheel).

It won't prevent you from steering as you still have an open diff in the back, and the wheels that are locked can be pointed to where you want to go. It's not the same as having both diffs locked, or even just a rear diff locked.

Ok, how would the steering be if you had a lockrite in front and rear, would it not be effective for off road or trials ?

I think the best description for a Lockright tyre "positive locking diff" is an "un-locker"? i.e. it's locked all of the time until there is sufficient forces for the teeth to jump a position when cornering... hence why they chatter and bang!

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So, from what I read above, the ideal situation would be to have an ARB air-locker in the back, and a LSD (Limited Slip Differential) in the front with 26 spline shafts and big CVs? :whistle:

Now... who do we know with that in the Jim'?

The ideal solution would be a true automatic locking diffs, e.g an airlocker that worked automatically like a lockright is supposed to (if you believe the sales blurb). Or an LSD that fitted in the axle with normal halfshafts and CVs and worked even when you have a wheel in the air. A decent traction control system takes some beating too! Unfortunately there aren't many easy options for the Jimny though.