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Fitting 2" body lift

  • Back in Black
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17 Aug 2011 10:41 #20540 by Back in Black
Fitting 2" body lift was created by Back in Black
Hi,

(first post so please go easy on me!!)

I am fitting (fingers crossed) a JimnyBits 2" body lift at the weekend, having got a height complex after looking at the other Jimnys here, and didn't want to stand out too much at Wagtails. I have done a trial run and found how to access all 8 bolts. I have also ordered extended brake lines, as I have already fitted 2" spacers on the springs and was concerned the current lines might get a bit stretched.

I have noticed that the front bumper mounts will no-longer line up, and I have read that sometimes the gear stick and 4 wheel drive selector no longer work correctly without some tweaks. What alse do I need to be aware of?

If you have any tips they, will be gratefully reiceved.

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  • Az1987
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17 Aug 2011 12:41 #20547 by Az1987
Replied by Az1987 on topic Re: Fitting 2" body lift
You might have to make the steering shaft long is you don't get the bits in the kit

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  • VAXXi
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17 Aug 2011 13:19 #20549 by VAXXi
Replied by VAXXi on topic Re: Fitting 2" body lift
From my knowledge, you're good to go: springs, brake lines, shocks. The extended brake lines were required even if you didn't had spacers, as the brake lines will stretch quite a way when flexing the suspension. A steering spacer is not required (I have a 2" body lift and it works ok), but indeed the grip on the steering shaft will be shorter than the original. For 3" you definitely need a steering spacer.

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  • srcars
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17 Aug 2011 17:16 #20571 by srcars
Replied by srcars on topic Re: Fitting 2" body lift
Dont know if its down to the year but I had to extend the steering. Either way if your steering wheel gets disconnected from the box make sure you connect it back without turning it. The horn and air bag electrics are connected by a clockwork style ribon cable only capable of turning if i remember correctly 2 1/2 turns in each direction.
I also had to adapt the transfer box lever to allow 4wd low to engage. I removed the lever from above and then cut it, rotated the two halves slightly and rewelded it back togeather. Most people get it bent for them but it needs some serious heat.
Watch your air pipes for the free wheeling hubs and your brake lines as you lift it but other than that it was very straight forward and done in a few hours single handed ;) Just take your time when you lift to make sure nothing is caught.
My MOT man was pleased to see the brake balance bracket on the rear axle adapted which is an easy fix.
Hope that helps a bit

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  • Back in Black
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18 Aug 2011 09:47 #20621 by Back in Black
Replied by Back in Black on topic Re: Fitting 2" body lift
Thank you all for the replies/information.

I feel more confident now that I will be able to pull it off.

I'll post an update when I've finished ;)

Thanks again.......

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18 Aug 2011 10:02 #20622 by Johnniehec
Replied by Johnniehec on topic Re: Fitting 2" body lift
Welcome Back in Black,
There's no such thing as a stupid question on here and even if it's been asked before you'll still get answers or directed to the relevant info.
My DIY body lift turned out at 32mm! (length of nylon bar cut into eight bits) slacken both ends of both steering knuckles but dont remove the bolts there's a flat on the splined shafts where the bolts sit and the one on the steering box is about an inch long, that's where I got the necessary extension. It's also the one that's likely to be seized.I don't think the bottom front bumper brackets can be shifted/modified by 2ins as they're fixed closely to the bottom of the cross member, but I'm sure someone can correct me if I'm wrong. My bumper is cut so I don't have bottom mounts anyway. the brake pipes/hoses to watch are the two short flexys between body and chassis below the master cylinder, unbolt the union from the chassis and bend the pipes slightly as you lift then put in a short plate to extend the bracket. The rear flexy is not affected by a body lift, the fronts are. You'll also need to take the cover off the fuel tank filler pipes under the rear offside wheelarch and loosen the jubilee clips, maybe get some new ones in case.The main gear lever should be OK but the transfer lever does need adjusting otherwise it'll be difficult to select low ratio and/or jump back into high (right pain in the a*%e when you're competing in a trial!) The standard lever is a complex bend to the front and left it's easy to take out (after the lift cos there's more clearance) I cut mine 3/4 way through and straightened the bend to the front and welded it up (looking at it now from right or left it looks straight if that makes sense) hope this might help a bit.
Cheers,
John.

On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.
The following user(s) said Thank You: Back in Black

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