Manual steering alignment

Whatcha. Tomorrow Spare Jimny is going in for an alignment as it's pulling the outside corner of the passenger tyre to bits. I'm half reliably informed that mother smote it against a pot hole. At speed. Anyway it's going to my preferred tyre place this time but its got me thinking given the simplicity of the alignment on the jimny and the lack of rear adjustment does it make sense to look at buying one of those tape measure tools that bolt onto the wheel flanges and give you the clearance to measure the relative length in front and behind the axle to determine toe as a linear measure. They're usually two large flat plates with notches to support the 2 tape measures. It's just that given the state of the roads this is likely not the last time I might need to check the wheels are still pointing in the same direction. 

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This sort of thing. 

Absolutely. Literally the only "adjustable" thing for the alignment is the tierods.

I say "adjustable" as I have straightened rear axles for a customer of ours who has built a competition style Disco1. He came down hard on the axle housing / diff pumpkin and managed to bend it slightly. As he also uses it for touring, and his tyres are expensive, he wanted it straight again. Chains, a hydraulic press and heat bought it back to spec. We've since converted nissan patrol axles for it.

So if its more than just a tierod adjustment on a jimny its not something your average alignment shop could fix anyway, but at least they will tell you how far off it is.

Yeah it only doing it to the front passenger side is slightly worrying as there is no independent action to each wheel. I'll see what is said later.

Never seen those brackets before, but you could easily make some up with a piece of angle iron or ally. I bet some old dexion shelving stuff would be ideal?

I did "alignment" on my SJ myself after it went from 195-80-15 to 325-60-15 tyres. This car was a bit lifted so access was easy,
I painted a part of the tyre thread white.
I took a piece of board/plank and put two nails thru it spaced apart so i could make marks in the white paint at the rear of the front tyres.
Then rolled the car fwd to see how much toe-in there was as the distance between the marks changed, and adjusted so i got approx 2 degrees of toe-in.
Calculated this from the top of my head and a drawing and basic school geometry.
Made my wobble situation much better, and car felt good to drive after.

I dont remember where I got the tip or the figure from then..

Of course I can not recommend this procedure to anyone as there are way too many ways to mess it up like this