Re:Re:Re:Jimny pulling to right

Also thinking about it more are the new tyres the same size or bigger than standard and are they fitted to the original wheels or aftermarket ones? Thinking that if you have altered the scrub radius of the wheels you may be putting additional drag into the steering which may not be being expressed evenly if something isn't quite aligned perfectly. It's also worth noting that within tolerance isn't the same as perfect and Jimny is historically very sensitive to the front axle being perfect.

Lambert wrote: Also thinking about it more are the new tyres the same size or bigger than standard and are they fitted to the original wheels or aftermarket ones? Thinking that if you have altered the scrub radius of the wheels you may be putting additional drag into the steering which may not be being expressed evenly if something isn't quite aligned perfectly. It's also worth noting that within tolerance isn't the same as perfect and Jimny is historically very sensitive to the front axle being perfect.

Thank Lambert I have thought about scrub radius as I read about it in my google searches but I do not fully understand concept, but have added it to my list of possibilities.

Tyres basically one size bigger (215/75/R15) but still using the original rims.

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Lambert wrote: Has the kit that you used to lift the Jimny made any provision to correct the castor angle, either with new arms or correction bushes? Thinking it could possibly be worth accurately measuring the distance between the centre of the axles on each side and comparing. If the front and rear axles are not parallel to each other and also at exactly 90 degrees to the thrust axis of the car that could cause the issue.

That is why I just ordered a new adjustable panhard rod for the back also as that is also a thing I have read about in the meantime googling.
But to be honest, no I have not measured the back. Thought if front is ok all is ok.

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Roger Fairclough wrote: There are a number of void bushes in a suspension and steering system. These must be slackened off when the suspension or steering is modified and then re-torqued to specification afterwards. Prior to re-torque, the vehicle must have it's wheels on the ground. Also bounce the vehicle a few times to settle everything down.

Roger

Thanks Roger. Very insightfull comment. These has not been done definately as they allowed me to watch while they doing it and I have not seen them doing something to that order. Basically they just took off the old shocks and springs and I put in new shocks and springs and that was only things they loosened and fastened.

Mind sharing maybe to explain what bushes you are refering to, so that I can ask the fitment centre specifically.


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Void bushes are used to reduce NVH, Noise, Vibration and Harshness. Two steel tubes one inside the other with the space between filled with rubber. Other name is a suspension bush. Only use genuine ones if you need new ones as cheap really are rubbish.

This is a classic situation that the people who fit suspension systems can't be bothered to do it properly.

It is important otherwise you can finish up with unbalanced suspension.

Also, whilst I am feverishly typing - tea is on it's way - shock absorbers need to be "Settled" before fitting:-

Single tube high pressure type like Gabriel no problem because the gas - usually nitrogen - cant mix.

Twin tube, low pressure without foam insert definitely do. Hold shock upright and force rod all the way down. Allow rod to return to top and repeat 5 more times. Last push down should be smooth all the way. Fit the shock but do not allow the shock to move beyond 45 degrees or you stand the chance of the nitrogen getting back into the oil.

Twin tube with foam insert. Supposed not to need bleeding but for the time needed I would do it.

Roger

Roger Fairclough wrote: Void bushes are used to reduce NVH, Noise, Vibration and Harshness. Two steel tubes one inside the other with the space between filled with rubber. Other name is a suspension bush. Only use genuine ones if you need new ones as cheap really are rubbish.

This is a classic situation that the people who fit suspension systems can't be bothered to do it properly.

It is important otherwise you can finish up with unbalanced suspension.

Also, whilst I am feverishly typing - tea is on it's way - shock absorbers need to be "Settled" before fitting:-

Single tube high pressure type like Gabriel no problem because the gas - usually nitrogen - cant mix.

Twin tube, low pressure without foam insert definitely do. Hold shock upright and force rod all the way down. Allow rod to return to top and repeat 5 more times. Last push down should be smooth all the way. Fit the shock but do not allow the shock to move beyond 45 degrees or you stand the chance of the nitrogen getting back into the oil.

Twin tube with foam insert. Supposed not to need bleeding but for the time needed I would do it.

Roger

Thank you kindly Roger. Today I learned something.

That is why I love this forum.

The hands on experience here is phenominal and it is clear that a lot of people here have obtained their knowledge over many many years and I thank you each for taking time to explain in language even us non technical can understand but most importantly willingness to share experience and knowledge.

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