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Galvanised Chassis

  • dmonk
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28 Jun 2016 06:54 #169244 by dmonk
Replied by dmonk on topic Galvanised Chassis
Thanks Guys,

This Jimny is for a project but not an off roader.....it will be chopped around quite a bit as things progress. Having failed the MOT I need to get it back into a roadworthy condition to demonstrate the finished unit.

The MOT failure was mainly chassis based - up until 2 years ago a replacement chassis was available from Suzuki as a spare part - sadly they only service product in this area up to 10 years old
provided you can demonstrate to the DVLA that you purchased the new part they have no concerns with you replacing the chassis.

The VIN Plate is the identifier of the complete vehicle,
everything is related to that VIN, engine number and so on.......by replacing a spare part you are not changing the identity of the vehicle, just a spare part and as the page from the catalogue shows the chassis is a spare part.

I've built LR several specialist units for export, some with a changeover to LHD and have never had an issue with the DVLA over replacement chassis
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  • Curveking
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06 Sep 2019 17:39 #213227 by Curveking
Replied by Curveking on topic Galvanised Chassis
Somebody could make a lot of money selling Jimny Chassis's.

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09 Sep 2019 12:22 #213329 by kirkynut
Replied by kirkynut on topic Galvanised Chassis
Crickey, you've dug up an old thread there!

Not really as generally the chassis don't rot, just the shells, as I said in 2016!

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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26 Sep 2019 06:29 #213864 by Bosanek
Replied by Bosanek on topic Galvanised Chassis
For anyone reading this and considering to galvanize a used chassis:

Yes it is possible to perform a hot dip galvanization of a used chassis. I considered doing that at one point, so I even contacted a company which performs hot galvanization of metal parts.

The process consists of dipping the chassis in a pool of acid first (to eat away all the dirt, rust, paint, etc. and to etch the metal), then dip it into a pool of acid neutralizer, and then in a pool of hot molten zinc at about 450 C.

They told me that small truck chassis are susceptible to warping at such high temperatures and that I would have to sign a document where I accept all the risks of the procedure.

There is an alternative process called cold galvanization which is performed just after sand blasting the chassis. It does not involve any acids, and the zinc can be applied only to the exterior surfaces, so the interior of the chassis will not be treated.

All in all, it does not pay off. Better to obtain another better chassis.

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  • Lambert
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26 Sep 2019 08:25 #213867 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Galvanised Chassis
Bear in mind that the average truck chassis is often a open c section design and is intended to provide some flex from one end to the other. A 4x4 chassis is a closed box section with numerous cross members and isn't really intended to flex much at all. Hence why it's a common practice with the old defender to hot dip galvanize. Equally though a land rover comes from the factory pre corroded unlike a Jimny.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!

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26 Sep 2019 09:31 - 26 Sep 2019 17:17 #213869 by Max Headroom
Replied by Max Headroom on topic Galvanised Chassis
I know Citroen 2CV chassis' got galvanised, and it was possible to buy a new chassis in a galvanised state, but I think they were a 'C' section rail as are many pre-war cars. Some pre-war racing cars had sections welded in effectively making a boxed section for bettter tortional strengthen. These often had large lightening holes cut into them to reduce weight

I haven't heard of anyone galvanising a pre-war chassis and I've been involved with pre-war cars since the 1980s - these cars are 80+ years old and still being dug up from old outhouses where they've been stored in often unfavourable conditions - they get sandblasted back to bare metal and the usual paint finishes applied (I favour two-pack paint) . Any cross-tubes get pumped full of Dinitrol or Waxoyl and they should be good for the next 80 years.




Any rotten parts of the chassis rails are simply cut out and replaced - same with any cross-tubes.
The hardest bits to replace are the castings that were riveted onto the chassis in which the cross-tubes fit

Bent chassis are straightened using heat applied at various points - but I imagine that must be a fairly specialist job as you'd need to fully understand what your doing in order to acheive a straight chassis


IF IT AINT BROKE, KEEP FIXING IT UNTIL IT IS
Last edit: 26 Sep 2019 17:17 by Max Headroom.

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