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wanderinstar wrote: "Most vacuum equipped Jimnys run in 2WD low anyway"
If that is the case Martin, is it possible to convert to 2WD high? How would you know if your vehicle was running 2WD low
I presume you would not be towing your heavy trailer in the road. As I presume if you need 2wd low to tow it, then it must be VRRY heavy.. Be very careful of exceeding the vehicle towing weight.
it has the potential to be very heavy but only around the yard. probably wouldnt tow on the road with a jimny anyways could get scary!
What about disconnecting the vacuum pipes from the outputs of valves VSV1 and VSV2, and then blocking the exits of those valves?
In that case, whenever the car is shifted from 2WD into 4WD, the 4WD controller will be fooled that the vacuuming process has successfully completed (because the outputs of the valves are blocked and they will make vacuum locally) and the green 4WD light will be constantly lit.
After that just go one step more - shift into 4WD-L, which will in reality be 2WD-L, because the front wheel hubs have not been locked by the vacuum.
However, this will not be "pure" 2WD-L, as the front prop shaft will get connected to the transfer case. Therefore, while in 2WD-L, the front prop shaft and the front differential will spin while the vehicle is in motion, but they should have no load on them as they will not be transferring the momentum from the transfer box to anything.
Can something be broken / damaged if the vehicle is driven in this kind of virtual "2WD-L"?
Shifting back into regular 2WD mode would also be successful as the vehicle would think that it had successfully completed the inverse vacuuming process of the front hubs.
Yeah of course. It's dead easy- the hardest bit is making sure you get the right wire.
1.Remove plastic trim around the handbrake (2 screws).
2.Under the carpet is a bundle of wires (loom) Locate small group of wires that splits from the bigger loom. It goes through a grommet in the floor, just behind the handbrake. The wire you want is in this group.
3.Peel back the loom insulation and locate a thick blue and black striped wire with red spots on it. (Be aware there are 2 blue and black wires but the one you want is thicker with red spots on it)
4.Cut the wire and connect the ends to a simple on/off toggle switch. I extended the wires by about 100mm and drilled a small hole in the plastic trim beside the handbrake to locate the switch.
5.Test it works with the engine running. Select 4wd the flick the switch. The 4wd on the dash should go off when the switch is off and come back on with the switch is on.
6. Put it all back together.
Now you have a switch that will control the engagement of the front hubs. By selecting 4Lo then flicking the switch your front hubs will disengage. The 4wd light on the dash will indicate if the hubs are engaged or not.
It helps if you can remember you fitted a 2wd low switch when you take the transfer box out and replace it and before you spend some time looking for broken wires because the 4wd light won't come on :whistle:
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
So the custom-installed switch can be used while the vehicle is already in 4WD-H or 4WD-L mode? By toggling the switch while any of those two modes are already active, the vacuum system will be invoked to engage or disengage the front hubs?
I suppose that the front propeller shaft will still remain connected to the transfer box in 4WD and 4WD-L modes, no matter of the position of that switch? So the front prop shaft (and front diff) will rotate anyway, but they won't have any load when the switch is off?
Does this modification work both for older Jimnys with mechanically operated transfer box (stick-shift) and also for newer Jimnys with electrically operated transfer box (push-button)?
thanking you 
could get scary! 
