Interior revamping project (various mods and accessories)

Composite speakers are easy to fit, I used a plastic spacer that had to be sacrificed to get the larger speaker in the footwell then run the wire up the door pillar and mount tweeter on the dash, then tuck the cross over up under the dash and secure.

If you do strip the sound deadening, don't use heat.... It will be a sticky nightmare....

Use dry ice and freeze it, then it shatters and comes away easily, well worth the trouble of getting the dry ice.

sniper

Thank you all for your suggestions and inputs.


1.
I strongly recommend using the more expensive alubutyl instead of bitumen for anyone who contemplates on installing additional sound deadening. I wrote about all the advantages of alubutyl in the new wiki article on sound insulation (in modifications section).


2.
I applied Car System KS-200 cavity wax into the:

• bottoms of all the doors
  
• all the sills below the side doors
  
• bottoms of the holes behind the rear speakers
  
• bottoms of holes behind rear vertical lamps (there was considerable rust there after only 5 years and it was painstaking to remove)
  
• inner joints between the rear wheel arches and side body panels below rear side windows.

I also intend apply the same wax in all the chassis rails and behind the front head lamps.
Can anyone think of any other area of application?


8.
I suppose that I would need an ISO-Suzuki el. connector adapter if using an aftermarket radio to replace the Clarion unit?
As much as I would like to replace the Clarion radio with a modern fancy unit, I am reluctant to do so due to high risk of theft in my region. Not only that you lose the fancy radio, but you get damaged door lock / frame and/or windows as a bonus. They also like to scratch leather seats with knives if the vehicle has them, just as a "Zorro" signature nod.
Does anyone have experience if it would be easy or time-effective for a thief to steal a radio from Jimny 3's facelift console?



My additional questions:

9.
I am trying to remove worn and rotten factory cotton felt heat/sound insulation which is factory glued on the underside of the carpet. I used a knife to easily cut it away, but a thin layer of the cotton felt scrap has remained glued to the underside of the carpet.
I tried WD40, brake cleaning fluid, baby oil, paint remover, saliva, shit and piss and nothing helps at all to remove this final thin layer of cotton fibers from the underside of the carpet. Does anyone have a solution? I can not glue my replacement heat/sound insulation foam onto these remains, it has to be a clean solid surface.


10.
Those holes in the body below the rear side windows are quite large, and could theoretically serve as a very useful additional storage area. Has anyone made any practical use of them?

Single din in the glove box? The Mechless ones have a small depth to them now if space is tight, and re route cables from original radio would be you only option, I would imagine if crime is high in you area.

About 7: I really need this to help my old clutch. I'm just little worried about shorting solenoid outputs? Is this really a good solution?
With pinballs this would burn the IO card transistors quickly because solenoids have some resistance compared to short circuit.

muto wrote: About 7: I really need this to help my old clutch. I'm just little worried about shorting solenoid outputs? Is this really a good solution?
With pinballs this would burn the IO card transistors quickly because solenoids have some resistance compared to short circuit.

Mines been shorted out like that for a few years now (although with a stick t-box admittedly). I have done this to fool my vvt car into thinking the t-box and hubs are all still there and working. The stick t-box 4wd switch is wired to the 4x4 dash light through the existing wiring and ecu, hence needing to short out the vac hub connection (and a connection on the original push-button t-box wiring is shorted out also to make the ecu think its still standard).

hope that makes sense!