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If so you can have your own thread in this section.
This section on other websites has led to arguments and contention. People are posting pictures of their pride and joy and therefore CONSTRUCTIVE comments only please!
Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
- ZookFastback
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14 Sep 2016 02:49 #172280
by ZookFastback
Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny. was created by ZookFastback
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- ZookFastback
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14 Sep 2016 03:12 - 14 Sep 2016 03:14 #172281
by ZookFastback
Replied by ZookFastback on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
The rear eyelets DON"T interfere with the door closing. Just in case anyone was curious. Have to mount Fire Extinguisher now, where the two drill hole are in the upright section, so it will be nice and accessible. The floor has no shakes or rattles and is secured with 4 screws. Firm as and my 110 kgs doesn't make it wobble. ::
Last edit: 14 Sep 2016 03:14 by ZookFastback.
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- jackonlyjack
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14 Sep 2016 08:14 #172286
by jackonlyjack
Replied by jackonlyjack on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
like it
did you tap out the holes for eye bolts
or can you get correct thread ?
Jack
did you tap out the holes for eye bolts
or can you get correct thread ?
Jack
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- ZookFastback
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14 Sep 2016 08:23 #172288
by ZookFastback
Replied by ZookFastback on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
The bolt holes were 8mm and 10mm respectively, standard sizes for Eyelets so, off the shelf items.
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- GRAYWOLF
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16 Sep 2016 21:12 #172447
by GRAYWOLF
Replied by GRAYWOLF on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
Hi, just admiring your checker floor, what thickness did you use.?
What a real tidy job mate, just removed the rear seats and all belts etc from my 05 ragtop, looking to do similar to tidy up the uneven floor, any tips??
Regards.
Tony
What a real tidy job mate, just removed the rear seats and all belts etc from my 05 ragtop, looking to do similar to tidy up the uneven floor, any tips??
Regards.
Tony
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- Fladdem
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16 Sep 2016 21:53 #172449
by Fladdem
Replied by Fladdem on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
Nice, looks very good. I built a ply-wood floor for the back and it's rubbish :sick:
Have you got any instructions/measurements for your checker-plate liner and any pics of how it went together? I really struggle at things like this, I can't see a space and picture how something will look in there and how it will go together.
Have you got any instructions/measurements for your checker-plate liner and any pics of how it went together? I really struggle at things like this, I can't see a space and picture how something will look in there and how it will go together.
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- ZookFastback
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17 Sep 2016 09:38 #172470
by ZookFastback
Replied by ZookFastback on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
I'll get back to you guys in about 10 days. I'm up bush at the moment, in the Big Desert. Jimny is down in Frankston, other end of Vic.
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- ZookFastback
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11 Oct 2016 06:00 #173347
by ZookFastback
Replied by ZookFastback on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
Back home and also found the original measurements for Aluminium Checkerplate floor. Bought one sheet of 2400mm x 1200mm x 1.6mm sheet for $88 and made two floors. Floor width is 945mm and length is 900, bent at right angles at 740mm. This left a sheet 600mm long by 945 which we may use yet for another project. The shop cut the width from 1200mm to 945mm for free and gave us the 2400mm x 255mm which I might stick on top of plastic bumper at some stage.
So, shop cuts to size and bends for free, pretty much standard deal here in Oz. Two floors 945 wide x 740 long with 160 high right-angle bend for a lip. The cutaway to access jack compartment was made by placing the original rubbishy fibreboard lid on checkerplate floor and running a thick pencil around and then cutting with a jigsaw and pop-riveting two hinges in and running a file over edges. The 20mm finger hole to lift hatch was made with a step-drill.
Fitting: I checked out where to drill so that screws wouldn't pierce anything but my mate was even smarter He used a 1 metre spirit level to find the high points on original floor and then squeezed silicone out about 1/4" thick in long beads and simply squished his plate down onto for a semi-permanent fit that doesn't make noise like mine does at high speed. I'm going to undo mine and do the same one day :whistle:
So there you have it. 2 Jimny floors of aluminium checkerplate that weigh nothing and some material left over and the hinges cost $3.49/pair and rivets cost near enough to nothing so we figure < $50 each floor for each Jimny. :woohoo:
So, shop cuts to size and bends for free, pretty much standard deal here in Oz. Two floors 945 wide x 740 long with 160 high right-angle bend for a lip. The cutaway to access jack compartment was made by placing the original rubbishy fibreboard lid on checkerplate floor and running a thick pencil around and then cutting with a jigsaw and pop-riveting two hinges in and running a file over edges. The 20mm finger hole to lift hatch was made with a step-drill.
Fitting: I checked out where to drill so that screws wouldn't pierce anything but my mate was even smarter He used a 1 metre spirit level to find the high points on original floor and then squeezed silicone out about 1/4" thick in long beads and simply squished his plate down onto for a semi-permanent fit that doesn't make noise like mine does at high speed. I'm going to undo mine and do the same one day :whistle:
So there you have it. 2 Jimny floors of aluminium checkerplate that weigh nothing and some material left over and the hinges cost $3.49/pair and rivets cost near enough to nothing so we figure < $50 each floor for each Jimny. :woohoo:
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- Daniel30
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11 Oct 2016 16:06 #173373
by Daniel30
Replied by Daniel30 on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
Nice and tidy as usual
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- GRAYWOLF
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11 Oct 2016 19:03 #173396
by GRAYWOLF
Replied by GRAYWOLF on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
Cheers for the info mate, i have bitten the bullet for my ragtop, bought a piece of 1000mmx1000 mm.1.5mm alloy chequerplate,Copst me £35.99 uk.pretty fair for over here..plus free postage.! just finished cutting to size...i also am using the offcuts to cap off the holes left in inner rear panel, where i have removed seat belt fittings, and all bodycover caps for same, will post pics when complete..you've inspired me .. .
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- ZookFastback
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11 Oct 2016 21:41 #173403
by ZookFastback
Replied by ZookFastback on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
Looking forward to the pics mate. Cheers and good luck! Was it difficult removing the seatbelt columns? I was too slack :blush:
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- GRAYWOLF
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13 Oct 2016 16:29 #173493
by GRAYWOLF
Replied by GRAYWOLF on topic Tie-downs added for the Aluminium checkerplate floor in ragtop Jimny.
No ,mate, doddle really..unclip left/right sidepanels, dont need to take em all way off, otherwise you end up pratting around with speakers etc;etc.
The easiest way was unclip centre long moulding at rear..where tail closes, unbolt the seatbelt on plastic turret.. pop the plastic retaining plug out just below belt bolt mount, plastic turret cover then lifts off..you need to then unclip side panel left, unscrew floor retaining self tappers, at front nr speaker, and on floor at rear, ease it forward, at rear, you can the get a socket onto the four retaining bolts which hold the metal belt turret support in place, undo em, remove with belt complete, and just put all bolts back into body, carefully clip panel back into place,then repeat on right side.! took me about an hour and a half to remove all seats bolts and belts.. you will then have a nice hole in top of bodypanel where turret was, but i am fitting an aluminium chequer hand cut / sanded/ filed.!! piece into gap..will post pics when i can...will tidy it up nicely..
The easiest way was unclip centre long moulding at rear..where tail closes, unbolt the seatbelt on plastic turret.. pop the plastic retaining plug out just below belt bolt mount, plastic turret cover then lifts off..you need to then unclip side panel left, unscrew floor retaining self tappers, at front nr speaker, and on floor at rear, ease it forward, at rear, you can the get a socket onto the four retaining bolts which hold the metal belt turret support in place, undo em, remove with belt complete, and just put all bolts back into body, carefully clip panel back into place,then repeat on right side.! took me about an hour and a half to remove all seats bolts and belts.. you will then have a nice hole in top of bodypanel where turret was, but i am fitting an aluminium chequer hand cut / sanded/ filed.!! piece into gap..will post pics when i can...will tidy it up nicely..
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