engine and gearbox removal

i have a 2000 plate soft top, i want to remove the engine and gearbox as one as i will be swapping the 1300 block for a 1600 one, will i have to remove the transfer box also?

No mate propshaft should just pull out the back of the gearbox

i was under the jimny, with the gearbox attached it looks very long, is there much bother getting it out of the bay or is it better to seperate the box first?

SAFER BET TO SEPERATE THEM IN SITU NEVER TAKEN THE WHOLE THING OUT AS ONE

thanks for that, i didnt feel too good about taking them out as a whole, ive got all the parts i need now so will start it the weekend, i will take pics of the procedure and post them

If you need any pointers mate give me a shout just done that conversion to 1600 so all fresh in my mind few pitfalls on the way but ran A1 when all done shame i pulled it out and went Diesel really just wanted less rev and more low down grunt

any advice is more than welcome, as it stands, i am taking the 1300 out, putting the head on the 1600 block, using the jimny flywheel, new jimny clutch, vitara head gasket and bolts, vitara timing belt,jimny alternator,using the jimny starter, baleno injectors, i was thinking about drilling the gearbox to take the larger bolts instead of the adapter plate.

i plan on taking loads of pics for when i put it all back together, going to take the engine out then the box.
mate the head to the block then offer it to the gearbox and see what i need to drill,

once that is done put the box back then the engine, make a new engine mount.

sounds simple!!haha will change the fluids too and possible the box breather pipe

Sounds like you are on the rite track engine mountings will need a bit of work i fabricated the O/S From scratch modified other side to suit.
Sump swap and pickup mod easy
Top gearbox bolts will line up just need to drill them out 12mm clearance lower 2 more tricky as they dont line up not sure how you can get around that think from SJ days fitting 8v vit engines some of the lads used to drill new holes in the block but cant be sure adaptor plates are cheap enough anyway.
Exsaust will clash as back of block wider but no biggy bit of cutting and snotting.
all really weird when you do it all seems to fit but only just !!!!!!!!!! you will see what i mean when you get into it.

i didnt think that i needed to change the sump? is it necessary? if so why? maybe i should just buy an adapter plate,

You dont have to change the sump just depends how much lift on the truck you have but the 1600 sump is a diffrent shape and can hit the axle if you dont have a fair bit of lift. if you fit the 1300 sump you will get more clearance to the axle but you will need to mod the oil pick up by either welding the 1300 strainer end to the 1600 tube or fitting a sleeve and o ring over the 1300 end where it sits into the block. Also when you fit the 1300 pick up you will need to drill and tap a hole M6 in one of the big end caps to secure the pipe to.
As for adaptor plate personal prefrence to use or not get 1 from Martin and it will be a nut and bolt job if not can see there being no other way than drilling holes into the block.

What 1600 16 valve bottom end are you using vitara or baleno ?

im using vitara 8v bottom, ive got a small 1.5 inch suspension lift on my jimny so im hoping that will be ok, ive seen on the net people welding threaded bar to the gearbox inline with the holes on the block then using a normal nut to bolt the two together, i will have to have a look when i get there

If you are using a 8v valve bottom end you will need to get 4 pockets milled in each piston to clear the valves a 8 valve piston has 2 pockets but they are in thye wrong place going to be a very short first run if you dont get it done