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So another way would be a spare wheel mount with the aerial cable going down behind the spare wheel and through the rear door rubber. This gets it inside but still on the rear door. Either feed it into the plastic door panel or along the bottom of the door to the hinge end and then over into the car internal panels
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Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
mlines wrote: So another way would be a spare wheel mount with the aerial cable going down behind the spare wheel and through the rear door rubber. This gets it inside but still on the rear door. Either feed it into the plastic door panel or along the bottom of the door to the hinge end and then over into the car internal panels
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Well slap my knee and call me shirley!! How did we miss that solution!! Ive got early stage alziemers i reckon. Look ..... i already forgot how to spell alsziiiiimmers.
But yes, that sounds great. Gonna have another butchers in a minute ...
err, Breaker on the side?
I believe I used this phrase in 1981, yes I once had a CB -great fun!
It seems to me you need to drill the door, but don't want to drill the door.
Bear with me, If you check inside the door at the welded captive nuts you' ll see there is a bit of spare meat on them. Enough to drill and tap one of them to m12, an m12 bolt can handle a 7.5 mm drilling.
I think GeorgeC told us the bolts were m10 fine thread but I'd swap to coarse thread because there is more choice of readily available hardware.
Chase out the existing threads with 10mm drill bit then follow with 10.5 and finish with 11mm. Use an m12 coarse tap and you're good to go.
Best practice, catch all swarf as nothing rots out a door like stray bits of steel.
Drill a bolt of suitable lengh and cut its head off, you then use a flange nut on the outside with a little thread still showing. This will make it easier to seal.
If in a years time you think you've made a mistake you can just pop in a helicoil.
All a lot neater than plumbers mastic.
Chris
CC Baxter wrote: err, Breaker on the side?
I believe I used this phrase in 1981, yes I once had a CB -great fun!
It seems to me you need to drill the door, but don't want to drill the door.
Bear with me, If you check inside the door at the welded captive nuts you' ll see there is a bit of spare meat on them. Enough to drill and tap one of them to m12, an m12 bolt can handle a 7.5 mm drilling.
I think GeorgeC told us the bolts were m10 fine thread but I'd swap to coarse thread because there is more choice of readily available hardware.
Chase out the existing threads with 10mm drill bit then follow with 10.5 and finish with 11mm. Use an m12 coarse tap and you're good to go.
Best practice, catch all swarf as nothing rots out a door like stray bits of steel.
Drill a bolt of suitable lengh and cut its head off, you then use a flange nut on the outside with a little thread still showing. This will make it easier to seal.
If in a years time you think you've made a mistake you can just pop in a helicoil.
All a lot neater than plumbers mastic.
Chris
I like that solution and could probably, just about, DIY it, maybe :silly:
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