Re:Gadget's 2019 hearing aid SZ5

Gadget wrote:

Soeley wrote: I know someone mentioned removing a bolt from the spare wheel bracket, my idea would be to see if it is possible to drill out the centre of the bolt and feed the coax through then fit the connector. That way you would have the bolt heat to apply some heat shrink to and no fretting bracket to rub your paint away. Just a thought off top of my head.

I think I saw the same comment on Facebook but hadn't considered it seriously before now, but that might be a really clever way to do it.

Looking at this photo from one of GeorgeC's posts (where did he go?) there are four 10mm bolts holding the spare wheel mount to the rear door. Not sure if the retaining holes open into the rear door space or are closed off? Will need to pull the door trim off again to check.

Co-ax is what 5-6mm? So in theory there would be enough room to run the cable through a center-drilled bolt to give a very neat and easily waterproofed entry point.

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This cable through the bolt idea seems a great solution if it is feasable.

Im goin home shortly, as i half day off work, so im gonna wangle the spare wheel off and have a butchers at where the bolt comes out internally. Even if it comes out within the door somewhere, it still wont require a scary drilling through the external bodywork.

Then a nice ariel bolted to the wheel frame, cable it through the cabin and have a concealed midland CB by the footwell.

A sweet setup for our October meet!!

My new handle is "J-Cub" by the ways, after my jimny youtube channel ....... hahaaa

I just ripped the rear door trim off and the ends of the bolts are visible inside the door, yay! Should be easy to route a cable through the door and existing conduit to the car interior, then behind the side trim up to the front. Next question, anyone have a lathe who wants to centre drill a bolt for me?

Gadget wrote: I just ripped the rear door trim off and the ends of the bolts are visible inside the door, yay! Should be easy to route a cable through the door and existing conduit to the car interior, then behind the side trim up to the front. Next question, anyone have a lathe who wants to centre drill a bolt for me?

YAAAY!!!!


I was gonna go n ask at a local engineering firm down the road. Surely a quick n easy job with the right tools?

Which wipp size would you go with Gadget?

0.89m medium or 1.5m large?

Was looking at these wipps
www.thunderpole.co.uk/large-cb-antennas/...pole-orbitor-hd.html

Gadget wrote: I just ripped the rear door trim off and the ends of the bolts are visible inside the door, yay! Should be easy to route a cable through the door and existing conduit to the car interior, then behind the side trim up to the front. Next question, anyone have a lathe who wants to centre drill a bolt for me?

Co-ax cable is 7mm O.D gadget. You’ll do well to centre drill a 10mm bolt to that extent, it’d weaken the bolt to the point where it would no longer serve a purpose.

It’s a great idea running the co-ax through the boot hole though, maybe just look to beef up the 3 remaining bolts? Is there space to create some sort of re-enforcement plate behind the interior trim?

If the coax is 7mm, then you would squeeze it through a 7mm drill hole, maybe with some WD40 help?

Im thinking to perhaps take the lower left bolt out and use that as the cable hole. Surely a 3 bolts will hold firm enough.

Gonna see what this engineering pal says first.

Andy2640 wrote: Im thinking to perhaps take the lower left bolt out and use that as the cable hole. Surely a 3 bolts will hold firm enough.

Gonna see what this engineering pal says first.

I'm sure 3 bolts will hole the spare on, but my concern will be the free corner will fret against the door skin and rub away the paint.

Soeley wrote:

Andy2640 wrote: Im thinking to perhaps take the lower left bolt out and use that as the cable hole. Surely a 3 bolts will hold firm enough.

Gonna see what this engineering pal says first.

I'm sure 3 bolts will hole the spare on, but my concern will be the free corner will fret against the door skin and rub away the paint.

Unless you remove the spare wheel carrier, apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the mating face and re assemble with 3 bolts. This would prevent any water ingress into the exposed hole, prevent any fretting and add a small amount of rigidity. I’d be surprised if it didn’t have some sort of gasket present anyway.

Surely the only other alternative is to drill another 8-10mm hole in the bodywork which I’d be really reluctant to do personally.

DAGZOOK wrote:

Soeley wrote:

Andy2640 wrote: Im thinking to perhaps take the lower left bolt out and use that as the cable hole. Surely a 3 bolts will hold firm enough.

Gonna see what this engineering pal says first.

I'm sure 3 bolts will hole the spare on, but my concern will be the free corner will fret against the door skin and rub away the paint.

Unless you remove the spare wheel carrier, apply a bead of silicone adhesive to the mating face and re assemble with 3 bolts. This would prevent any water ingress into the exposed hole, prevent any fretting and add a small amount of rigidity. I’d be surprised if it didn’t have some sort of gasket present anyway.

Surely the only other alternative is to drill another 8-10mm hole in the bodywork which I’d be really reluctant to do personally.

I think thats probably the best idea. Will provide a soft but firm cushion.

Engineering dude is gonna call me back today, but im wondering id its worth the faff.

Anyone know much about antennas and what size is best?

What about a mag-mount and take the wire through the door rubbers?

mlines wrote: What about a mag-mount and take the wire through the door rubbers?

Morning Martin,

I have this silly boyhood dream, whereby on my tonka truck there is a BIG antenna coming from the back of said truck.

Apart from that, I think it just looks awesome having the whip located on the back wheel.

But yes, some other people may find it easier and perhaps better in terms of performace to have it elsewhere.

Appreciate the suggestion for sure.

Cheers!