‘08 Jimny Rough Idle

I use a generic obd2 scanner to look at values

And I use an app called Car Scanner, image attached.
I’ll disconnect the other battery, and see what happens.

The workshop manual does seem to indicate the existence of both a MAF and MAP but it is probably a year older than my model, so it may be slightly out of date.

I did have a thought, would the P0102 and P0113 codes be relevant to the idle and misfire codes? If it’s not likely, I could just focus on the cam sensor potentially being faulty and at the worst case, the VVT actuator being faulty or not being put back together correctly. If there’s anything else I should look at, I’ll try it out.

Thanks.

If the manual shows a MAP sensor and you can read the value direct from the ECU then it must have one.

Hey, so I’ve disconnected the second battery today, nothing really changed, but it’s nice to have a bit more space in the engine bay. The main battery has a charge of 12.4v, so slightly lower than with the second one connected. I might charge it and see if it does anything, but not holding my breath.

Had a look at the Camshaft Sensor today as well, fair bit of oil around that area and tape around the connector as shown in the photos. Could oil cause the connectors and pins to not work properly, which is causing the ECM to think the Camshaft isn’t advancing as it should? Didn’t manage to clean the connectors as but I wonder if it’s worth ordering a new sensor. Anyone know if I can buy a new connector harness as well?

Another thought I had for the idle was the injectors possibly being blocked or malfunctioning. Haven’t really tested the theory, but just throwing it out there to see what you guys think. 

Also just messaged the owner about any more info he can give me about the idle. He said the head was reconditioned early last year and was running perfectly until he started feeling the idle change from only a few months ago.
If the timing was off or if something was not put back together properly, would they feel it immediately or would it take a while for symptoms to appear?

Thanks

If the cam shaft timing was out you would see problems straight away.

As you didn’t see the cam timing code first time around it’s unlikely that the cam chain has been put back incorrectly.

A film of oil on a connector could cause some problems. Try getting some electrical contact cleaner (preferably one that doesn’t leave a residue) or failing that WD40 or similar and give the connectors a good clean.

Robin

Just cleaned the connector and sensor today, cleared the DTCs and went for a few drives.
The p0011 code did come back eventually, but I did notice it took a while for it to reappear into the system. It took about 4 driven cycles instead of the usual 2 for it to reappear into the system, and I was driving it increasingly more intensely. I also noticed that the code didn’t appear as soon as the idle started playing up, but I don’t know how relevant that is. Could heatsoak play a factor into the sensor getting a false reading, since the oil could possibly absorb heat quicker to a possibly faulty camshaft sensor? I wonder if it’s worth replacing the sensor or if I should just start taking apart the valve cover? Any other possible places to look at?