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Changing the kingpin/swivel bearings - questions

  • 2013gary
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02 Jul 2018 13:16 #193923 by 2013gary
Hi all,
My Jimny has developed terrible death wobble so I'm in the middle of changing my kingpin bearings. I've disassembled everything, and cleaned as well as I can. I have a few questions before I start to put things back together though:

1. In Martin's video, when he replaces the axle oil seal, he uses the end of a rubber mallet. Is this necessary? Mine pushed in by hand and seems a tight fit and is sitting nice and flush. I noticed that there's a long, thin metal spring around inside circumference of the rubber seal, and I don't want to risk damaging this by hammering the seal in further if not necessary.

2. The article on the wiki says to pack the CV with grease, but not to overpack. How much is too much?

3. The article and video also say to fill the knuckle with 100ml grease. Please can someone confirm that by 'knuckle' they mean the cup on the end of the axle, as in the attached picture? Also what's a good way of measuring 100ml grease?


4. Also, I've attached a picture of the old bearings. Apart from being filthy they don't look too bad as they are in one piece. Could these still have been the cause of the death wobble?
Attachments:

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02 Jul 2018 13:40 - 02 Jul 2018 13:42 #193924 by mlines
The grease is 100ml OVERALL, including inside the CV joint itself. So its very little. Clean out the CV and pack with grease as well as the new kingpin Bearings. Then smear the rest around the exterior of the ball including where the large seal sits.
A tub of grease is typically 400 to 500 ml depending on what you have bought so 100ml is around or just under a quarter.

Those bearings could easily have been the source of the issue.

You can often push the seal home with your fingers, I just wanted to make sure mine had gone in all the way

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Last edit: 02 Jul 2018 13:42 by mlines.

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02 Jul 2018 17:29 #193927 by Riccy
100ml should be about 100g, so nick off with the kitchen scales, spoon it into a bag on the scales and there you go ;-)

Those bearings pictured look about done. I bet the one on the left is from the bottom.

J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp

Pickup/tipper, R7me gearbox & 6.4 Rocklobster, 31" Toyo MT, 2x ARB air locker 3.9 diffs in braced axles, 6" total lift, Floating rear conversion, Raptor painted, CB, Recaro's, Caged, etc, etc...

www.youtube.com/user/riclemus

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  • Dano0404
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02 Jul 2018 20:12 #193934 by Dano0404
I’m about to tackle this with brakes and wheel bearings let me know how it goes.

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  • 2013gary
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03 Jul 2018 07:50 #193943 by 2013gary
Thanks Martin and Riccy for your replies. You're right Riccy, the one on the left is from the bottom. Apart from being dirty I didn't think they looked too bad, so I was wondering if maybe something else was causing the wobble. I'll know soon when it's all back together.

Dano, it's not a bad job just a bit messy. The video on this site is really helpful. The circlip was easy to remove with a £10 pair of external circlip pliers from Halfords, and I tapped the old bearing races out with a small cold chisel. The brakes practically do themselves during the job, as you have to remove the pads and discs to get to the hub. If mine still has the wobble then I will be changing the wheel bearings next, although I will probably take the hub to a garage and pay someone to press the old bearings out and new ones in.

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  • Dano0404
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03 Jul 2018 19:56 #193947 by Dano0404
I tackled one side to night along with wheel bearing and brakes. Quite a easy job faily time consuming though. I use a 0.25mm spacer to give the bearings more thrust.

Took for a test drive and has definitely improved still a bit of wobble will do the other side in a day or two.

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