Re: Manual or automatic gearbox

Great thanks, almost similar to my old LC

Already come to love this forum, all these nice people, all this knowledge.. excellent

No eBay APP ID and/or Cert ID defined in Kunena configurationThe cooler I used was about this size, but half the thickness. The size was important for the motorcycle fan. Go for as many 'rows' as possible as it increases the flow.


The fittings want to be 3/8 BSP or 1/2 BSP otherwise they will restrict the flow.

Si

You're right Facade - you can switch the overdrive off and on as you want. Its a good thing to switch off if you are driving on hilly roads as it stops the box from continually changing down and back up again.

It also has a torque converter lock up which in effect gives a drive with no slippage.

If you start with the selector in position 2 , it will start in first and then change to 2nd so for snow you just have to be a bit careful.

Old thread I know, but having had manual and auto Gen 3 Jimnys, the 4 speed auto (2012 car) is about as good and inoffensive as an auto gets.  It can be a bit reluctant to kick down without a good shove, but that's better than my Mazda 3, which kicks down at the drop of a hat and needs a really light right foot for smooth driving.

I'd rather drive a manual car but the Jimny auto really is a good one.  The fuel consumption penalty over a manual is quite small - more like 3-4% than the 10% from the Mazda SkyActiv-Drive!

The ATF in the Jimny is still bright red.  No sign of leaks but I did have to top it up with about half a litre of Dexron III.  I suppose some evaporates in 11 years.

 

wrote:

Interesting Obarno. Looking into why my auto sticks in 3rd until well warmed up. About to have the g'box oil changed as I have read that might do the trick, but also understand there may be a sensor that might need kicking!

Thoughts? Is it a common problem? Is there a simple solution (is changing the oil the standard fix?)

Cheers

That's normal behaviour for the auto box from new, on the gen4 models too. None of them will lock up in cold weather until the fluid has warmed up a bit.

wrote:

wrote:

Interesting Obarno. Looking into why my auto sticks in 3rd until well warmed up. About to have the g'box oil changed as I have read that might do the trick, but also understand there may be a sensor that might need kicking!

Thoughts? Is it a common problem? Is there a simple solution (is changing the oil the standard fix?)

Cheers

That's normal behaviour for the auto box from new, on the gen4 models too. None of them will lock up in cold weather until the fluid has warmed up a bit.

I don't think it is about gearbox oil. It is about engine emissions and wanting to warm the engine up quicker by running at higher revs.

Overdrive & torque converter lockup are two different things.

If you want to check for torque converter lockup find a clear straight road with minimal traffic, you need to be able to get up to around 60 km/h - make sure the OD disable button is not depressed, (the OD OFF light must not be on) - accelerate in Drive gently from a standstill, keep an eye on the tachometer, and count the shifts, 1>2, 2>3, 3>OD(4), watch closely after it shifts into OD, within about ten seconds or so, you'll see the tach drop a few hundred rpm, that's the torque converter locking up.

Now, with your left foot, very gently depress the brake pedal, just enough to bring the brake lights on, but not enough to actually apply the brakes - you should be able to see the revs increase when the torque converter clutch disengages (when the pedal is depressed), and decrease when it engages (when the pedal is released).

Now repeat the exercise with the OD disable button depressed (OD OFF light on), this time you should only see two "up shifts", 1>2 & 2>3 and the torque converter should lock in third gear.

Does the auto box lock the torque converter in low range at all to enable better engine braking? I know some vehicles like a Disco 2 or a p38a Range Rover have this ability.