Help me understand my Jimny please

It seems to depend on the individual, and what they are doing with the car. If it's a daily and you want it to behave then relocation is the way. If however it's a project that spends most days in the mud and rocks being beaten straight after it gets home then it might not be a priority. Personally being into pavement princess jimny it would pain me not to get it perfect.

Maidan wrote:

Mine is lifted 50mm as far as I can tell.

I understood that panhard relocation isn’t really required for a 2” lift?  Anyone know how much the axles move right for a 2” lift?

It seems Lamberts Engineering does a front panhard relocation bracket for a Gen 4 but not the Gen 3.

Robin

DrRobin wrote:

It seems Lamberts Engineering does a front panhard relocation bracket for a Gen 4 but not the Gen 3.

Robin

Thanks for that tip - I found it on their page, along with a statement that a dropped pitman arm would be required with it - which is something I had not taken into consideration.

If the panhard rod and the steering drag link are not parallel to one another it induces "bump steer", so that's a good reason not to fit a relocation bracket at the front, I'll need to get a sheet of paper and do the math to see what effect longer panhard rods have on the steering, if any.

fordem wrote:

Thanks for that tip - I found it on their page, along with a statement that a dropped pitman arm would be required with it - which is something I had not taken into consideration.

If the panhard rod and the steering drag link are not parallel to one another it induces "bump steer", so that's a good reason not to fit a relocation bracket at the front, I'll need to get a sheet of paper and do the math to see what effect longer panhard rods have on the steering, if any.

I thought I would measure my rear panhard, its 930mm long between mounting point centres (+/-5mm).  The centre of the body mount is 400mm up from the ground, the point connected to the axle is 350mm up from the ground, the car is largely unloaded.  The axle is therefore 50mm lower than the body mount with my 2" lift.

I am going to make the assumption that a 2" lift doesn't raise the ride height for normally loaded by 2" (50mm), but instead gives about 40mm, due to the longer more progressive springs.

That means as stock the rear panhard would be 10mm lower on the axle and 50mm lower with my lift.  40mm difference in height over 930mm is only 1mm of horizontal difference.  If that is all it is  can't see that a right shift of 1mm will make any difference at all?

 

I don't know what the travel is on standard suspension, but if it's only 10mm below horizontal normally it must go the other way (axle panhard mounting point higher than the body mount) when compressed/loaded.

Robin
 

As calculation above says, a 50mm lift would not make any noticable change and definately not a problem.
Wich is why doing rods are not common with a 50mm lift.
Mine is lifted 50mm on the springs plus 25 spring spacer in the rear to compensate for sag and load and I have never noticed any shift or bad alignement. My tyres have been at or beyond the fender too so I would have noticed.
But then again I have had live axle cars for years now and I know that just a minor bump or uneven ground would make the tyre poke out more on one side than the other. And if I just recently went into a bump on the road that compressed the springs and dampers and all, it just might take another bump on the other side to make it look even again. Rocking the car hard from side to side can shift it a cm or so and I would not bother to give what only looks like a slight misalignement any thought.
And with bigger tyres it looks much worse than it is when there is less clearance in the fenders.
And as many says a slight measuring difference, slight tyre (pressure) difference, bushings uneven wear, steering angle, a bit here and a bit there would be visible but not a problem.

What is important is that the car behaves predictable and go straight and evenly at different speeds.