Auto engine into Manual - Hints and Tips

Thought I'd post this incase it pops up during a search to help anyone else as I still had doubts until the moment I turned the key , I couldn't find a definite answer online and there is a very slight modification required to get the engine and gearbox to mate. 
 
During the search for a replacement M13A engine, I wasn't impressed by the manual engines for sale on eBay, either they were overpriced compared to what I'd seen before, very high miles or had lots of parts already removed. 

Thinking outside the box, I removed my registration number from the parts compatibility tool and was suddenly offered quite a few engines from automatics. Generally cheaper, largely complete and presumably not being brought as the computer says parts not compatible. 

Before buying I did check the part numbers and photographs of the crankshafts and confirmed there the same, with the same hole PCD so I knew I could at least bolt the flywheel on ! 

I removed the flywheel, from the auto engine and fitted a manual flywheel and clutch with no issues, very simple straight swap and the bolts used are the same for both engines. I used thread lock on the bolts and removed and installed them using a cordless impact wrench.

Before the engine can be fitted, you will need to remove a STEEL DOWEL from the rear of the engine. Exhaust manifold side, approx 6mm in diameter. I didn't and when offered in it clashes with a similar dowel fitted to the manual gearbox. So the engine had to be craned out again.

Cutting the dowel off may seem tempting, but the dowel on the gearbox , needs a recess to locate into. I used a very small pair of stillsons to twist it out, it's push fit, but does take a bit of winding out. If I had access to my welder, I'd have welded a nut to it and used a ratchet to unwind it. 

Once the engine and gearbox were mated up, the gearbox shaft located in the end of the crank no bother ! I used the following parts from the auto engine with no ill effects - Inlet manifold, throttle body, fuel rail and injectors, EGR valve, crank sensor, oil pressure sensor, knock sensor, coil packs and leads. So there is lots of parts that can be swapped around. 

I had to reuse my starter motor and my existing power steering pump as I didn't break into the power steering system. 

The only sensor I can't definitely say is happy to work in both as I didn't try is the cam sensor on the rear of the engine . I reused my old one as the one on the donor engine looked terrible. 

Since the swap, I've had no warning lights, no running issues, the ECU hasn't detected any differences, have carried out around 500 miles and the only fault has been a leaking heater hose.  

Posting this as it might help someone else, get a cheaper, better engine and help keep another Jimny on the road. 










 

Luke5305 wrote:

Once the engine and gearbox were mated up, the gearbox shaft located in the end of the crank no bother !


 

There is a ball race bearing that supports the engine end of the input shaft- I think it is pressed into the flywheel, so it should have transferred over with the flywheel.

The auto would have a spacer on the end of the crank with a hole in it that fits the spigot on the torque converter, it should remove with the flex plate. (If you left it on, the starter ring will be moved about 10mm further back, so would the clutch and I doubt if there is enough adjustment in the cable to get it to work, so you can't have!)

The end of the crank is just a void that clears the very end of the input shaft or the spigot on the torque converter, depending on manual or auto.


Good call  on the engine, there are fewer autos about and usually auto specific parts are much harder to get.

Short version is that there is no difference between the manual and auto engine.

If the dowel/ guide pins follows the engine or gearbox when dismantling is something one must check on both manual and auto.

As long as you do not mix VVT or non VVT, 
The engines are the same but auxhiliaries may vary but still they too can be swapped over.
Even on the m16. My m16 is from an auto liana. 

The bearing was in the flywheel and looked a decent brand , think it was stamped "Taiwan" I left it well alone and at 47,000 miles I'm hoping there's lots of life left. 

I did have a moment of worry when first trying to make the vehicle go, it wouldn't go into gear with the engine running ! That was a low point, but turned out the clutch cable was seized, not allowing the arm to move. A replacement cable and then freeing the old one off sorted that.

One thing I am liking about my Suzuki, is the standardisation of parts, makes a change from my usual repairs on Hyundai's were even the reg no doesn't guarantee the right part will turn up. I'm going to investigate whether Swifts from the same age, will yield parts like alternators and starter motors etc as there's a few of them being broken locally and the cars might have had an easier life than a Jinmy.