Manual Hubs install

This evening after engaging 4wd, it failed to engage and now I have a flashing / illuminated 4wd symbol on the dash. I will now opt for manual hubs as I hear horror stories of failing vacuum systems. Before I order the hubs from Lambertengineering I have a few questions I hope the experts can help me with:

1. Can I fit manual hubs with the 4wd light illuminated on the dash?
2. Do I need to bridge wires somewhere? (conflicting info on this point ... for sure I dont want any illuminated/flashing lights on the dash)
3. If I have to bridge wires, this is where I get lost... can someone explain what, where and how I must do this?

Help much needed.. my next spend was due to be the aircon pump which needs replacing but now that must wait......

Vehicle is a shiny, new looking 2008 Gen 3 manual, advanced stage of refurb back to like new.....

Help and comments much appreciated!

Julian
 

All I have done to stop the flashing light is seal off the rubber vacuum lines at the solenoids under the battery tray, being a shepherd I just used nails of a suitable diameter and zip tied them together to stop them moving. Works fine.

If you look at the vacuum solenoids under the battery, there is a round vacuum switch. Join the wires together with a scotchlok.

Then you can remove the rubber vacuum feed from the manifold to the solenoids, and cap the manifold end spigot.

However, the original system relies on the seal in the wheel bearing ( -> 2WD) and the one between the CV joint and the hub (-> 4WD) so you may actually have failing swivel bearings pulling the CV out of alignment and causing the problem.



Leaving the system in place and plugging the vacuum pipes works provided that the original fault wasn't a sticking solenoid valve causing a loss of vacuum, or damage to the pipe from manifold to the solenoid valves. The solenoid valves get water inside if you go through water much over the axle and this makes them stick half open when they return under spring pressure- venting the vacuum tank.
 

This may help:

The vac lines on my Jimny were blocked, so I got a solid green, but the hubs didn’t engage. I just plugged the vac line at the solenoid with a rubber bung and put a cable tie round, but a nail works just as well. I then fitted manual hubs.

If your lines are shot, just plug at the solenoid as well and if you are worried about the hubs, just plug thos as well.

I did intend to buy some flexible vac pipe and just replace all of the lines as there are several joints and a mixture of steel and flexible pipe in the Suzuki setup.

Robin

Thanks Lambert & Dr.R... as always!

Sir Facade!... you slipped a small comment that makes me go ooooops... "However, the original system relies on the seal in the wheel bearing ( -> 2WD) and the one between the CV joint and the hub (-> 4WD) so you may actually have failing swivel bearings pulling the CV out of alignment and causing the problem.".....

How would I know if this is the case?. The vehicle runs beautifully, no off road adventures in past 4 years, no funnny noises, smells or smoke. What would I look for? (Am now on hold till I cover this...!!)

JAG

In my experience failing kingpin bearings have no affect on the CV joint seal. The CV is well supported inside the spindle, which also carries the seal so it's a fairly robust setup. Wheel bearing failure will affect the seal behind the wheel bearing, and a new seal is usually included with the new wheel bearing for this reason.

I'm with Busta here, Cannot see how play in the swivel bearings could affect the seals in the hub. Most lip seals can take alot of misalignment before they fail, Not unusual to see tolerances up to 0.4mm of misalignment. Pulsing from run-out or a bad surface for the lip seals and contamination is what is the more common reason for them to fail.

The vehicle has the slightest of death wobble at 50mph, but very little and easy to accelerate at rocket speed through this up to the magic 70mph. So I don't think I have any kingpin induced failures. Have a few weeks of continent hopping before I return to the UK and will close my eyes, purchase the hubs, a few nails and cable ties, out with my leatherman and lets see what happens. Will update for sure.

Thanks to all!

Having had manual hubs on earlier suzuki models for many years I feel I must balance things a bit and say that manual hubs need service too, and vacuum hubs when working, will not force you to dive down into snow, mud, water to be engaged. I for one will Hunt for any vacuum leak for maybe up to an hour or two before ordering manual hubs.

I think my SJ has automatic front hubs, non vacuum. Not quite sure how they work. Maybe some sort of ratchet device?

Suspect they might not stay locked in rolling back mebbe? We’ll see!

On the SJ if it is Just a small bulb there, it is permanently on. Or if they say auto and they poke out 60mm or so, they are most likely broken, or if manual you see the knob to switch over.