A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.
This still doesn't work for me. If the Suzuki system works as a traction control system, then when traction is lost i.e. wheel in the air, spinning away, the system notes a change in the rpm of that wheel and applies the brake to that wheel. Traction is now restored, or so the system believes, the wheel is still in the air but power can now go to the wheel on the ground. This is the fundamental concept of an ECU controlled system.
The Quaife system relies on driver intervention to load the diff. by applying brake pressure either by foot or hand.
The Suzuki system is automatic and fully selective, so what will the Quaife give you that the Suzuki doesn't?
Roger - the Suzuki system requires that comparatively high amount of energy/speed is needed in the system before it detects the issue and applies the brakes. This causes an element of wheel spin/slippage, particularly in a "Green Ice" situation on wet grass (all wheels on the ground).
The Quaife relies on the drivers use of braking, meaning it can be made more effective at a lower energy/speed level. (and of course an ARB locker works at effectively zero energy level as it has a locking system independent of energy and wheel speed).
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
LSDs combined with traction control is the winning combination. The difference is the Quaife is torque biasing e.g. it increases the amount of torque sent to the wheel with traction. With an open diff torque is always divided equally between the wheels so if the traction control applies a braking force of X to the spinning wheel, an equal force of X is sent to the wheel with grip. With a torque biasing diff the force is multiplied so you get perhaps 2X force at the grippy wheel, which greatly improves the effectiveness of the traction control.
In a recent article in 4x4 magazine concerning fitting diff. locks, the following comment was made.
"If doing this is a DIY job to you, then you don't need us to tell you how to do it. And if you do need us to tell you how to do it, then you can't do it".
Fitting a diff. requires a dial gauge and a weight scale. The first to set the clearance between crown wheel and pinion ant the latter to set the pre-load. To do the job properly, you need both plus the knowledge on how to use them.
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