A place for more technical discussions. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.
I didn't buy the complete kit (sourced my own calipers, discs and pads). But if you've bought the complete kit it should have the brake hose, I used some 7mm rubber lined stainless P clips to secure the hose along axle.
Like THESE
You have to cut the back plate off, that was probably the only tricky part of the swap.
My green laner build
2003 Jimny - M16 engine - 4.16 TC - Winch - Snorkel - 30x9.5 Maxxis MT-764 tyres on 15x7 ET-7 offset wheels - 4" lift - Rear floating axles and discs
Good choice on the brake conversion kit. it works well and make maintenance loads easier in the future.
I would be tempted to try and keep some sort of backing plate for the brakes if you can. I have put some front ones on for my rear floating kit (but thats a fair bit different to the Jimnybits kit). They seem to help with pad wear by keeping some of the muck out.
The next thing is to brace and paint that axle while its out. Axle 'gussets' are cheap and a worthwhile thing to weld on. Ive also discovered that you can weld on the Jimnybits shock guards for some extra protection as well as added strength to the radius arm brackets of the axle case.
J999 MNY, ULYSSES M18 VVT with ITB's Dyno tested at 130hp
Yeah, I was planning to brace the housing...I have a GYS SmartMig 162 machine which works on single phase socket but I had to realise that my fuse in the garage is not up to this kind of task :dry: As an absolute beginner in DIY welding I was practising to get the right settings but once I turned up the settings which theoretically suitable for 3mm+ steel it had cut off the fuse. And in the current situation I cannot even take it anywhere to get the job done. so likely I will need to take it apart again, once I could learn how weld this thick stuff. I guess saving anything from my backplate is not possible...:whistle:
TrailMaster 2" lift kit
Full floating rear axle conversion, JB underbody guards & recovery points
ORE transfer box HD brackets
T-Max split charge system
X-Shock Dakar ceramic clutch kit & roof rack
Flo-Flex castor polybushes
Kumho KL71 tyres
AVM manual hubs
ORA radius arm guards
Push-fit breathers
if you depress the brake pedal half way in and lock it with a stick or something so it stays there you will close the reservoir from the brake line.
Put a clamp on the brake line hose and you will not loose the fluid and you will only have to bleed from the clamp and back.
I do this every time i service the brakes, change the caliper or anything disconnecting brake lines.
reattach everything before releasing the pedal.
Have to admit I once forgot about the clamp and drove off thinking the brakes felt strange...
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And in the current situation I cannot even take it anywhere to get the job done. 
so likely I will need to take it apart again, once I could learn how weld this thick stuff. I guess saving anything from my backplate is not possible...:whistle:
