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Rocklobster Transfer Box Mountings

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30 Oct 2010 15:05 - 30 Oct 2010 15:06 #5552 by Obarno
What mountings is everyone using? Are you using standard Jimny, Samurai or something different - do you get any transmitted vibration through the mountings?
I mean the actual rubber/plastic etc mounting and not the arms.
Any info much appreciated.

Manual VVT, 2 1/2" lift, ORA castor corrected arms, 2" ORA body lift, 4:1 transfer box, Uprated front shafts & CVs ERM , ARBs back & front 3.9 diffs, 6 point cage, ORA winch bumper - Superwinch EP9, ORA rear bumper, ORA axle truses, Diff guards ERM , TBR tank guard, Snorkel, Kumho KL71.30.9.50 15
Last edit: 30 Oct 2010 15:06 by Obarno.

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30 Oct 2010 16:56 #5564 by mlines
I have Offroad Armory ones.

They are made of a Polybush material and do seem to transmit more transmission noise that the soft Suzuki ones.

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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30 Oct 2010 21:13 #5575 by kirkynut
I have the same as Martin and they make a horrible din!

I bashed my bash plate (that's what it's for after all) in the Lakes so it was touching the transfer box before I got my Rocklobster, which meant it was liek being connected directly to the chassis - it made a horrible noise until I removed it.

The trouble with these nylon ones is the bolt securing them goes all the way through the nylon bushes and the chassis arm. So the bolt it touching the box's metal mount and the chassis and transmits all the noise with it.

The original Suzuki ones have threaded rods coming out of either side which are bonded into the rubber mount but do not go all the way through - so the rubber between them dampens the noise.

I have been looking at the idea of Series Landrover Engine Mounts as an alternative but the mini prop from the transfer box to the gearbox only has one UJ as the other end slides into the gearbox. Therefore you need to keep the angle between them as close to nothing as you can or the gearbox will leak oil through that seal. So I haven't tried it yet through fear of wasting money.

I might get one of these and look at it compared to what's on it to see what the difference will be and get more if it seems close enough.

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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  • g187eev
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31 Oct 2010 22:45 #5615 by g187eev
Replied by g187eev on topic Re: Rocklobster Transfer Box Mountings
Hi guys, hi Peter....

It's interesting to hear how other customers are getting on with the bushes... did you try loosening the bolts as I suggested the other day Peter?... We are aware that the bushes do transfer a bit more drive train noise than the std bushes due to the poly' being stiffer than the factory suzuki bushes... however we'd not say it was a "horrible din"???

All the test vehicle we tried the bushes on, when fitted correctly, hardly made any more noise than std... and we found that much more noise could be heard from such things like mud tyres on the road etc etc...

As I have already said to Peter and would also suggest to anyone else running out t-case bushes... they should not be over tightened... you should nip them up just to take any slack out of the bolt, and then just 1 more turn for good measure...

Rob
OFFROAD ARMOURY

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01 Nov 2010 08:03 - 01 Nov 2010 08:06 #5619 by Obarno
Hi Guys, Rob - I did try loosening them of a bit but really it didn't make much difference. I haven't yet tried going back to std Suzi to see what they are like again but I have found that at certain speeds it gets noticeably worse, really the faster you go. Its not so much that I don't like the vibration, (I don't) its more the fact that it does vibrate and there has to be a reason. I was at a trial at the weekend and another Suzi owner suggested that the problem was not necessarily the mountings but the fact that the box doesn't sit level (it sits down at the back) The effect of this is that the input flange on the transfer box is not square to the back of the main gearbox. I know from my Wrangler that the only way to cure this is to put a cv joint on the output from the gearbox, and maybe that's what the Jimny needs. I'm not sure why the transfer box is mounted at an angle and maybe it could be mounted level. If so would that cure the problem? Rob I know that you wouldn't have just made the new mounts like that but I wonder why?
I also wonder what damage it might be doing to the bearing on the back of the autobox and the input bearing of the transfer box.
Any further thoughts much appreciated and thanks for your thoughts so far.

Kirkynut - I dod try some Kap mounts which are like a strong version of the suzi made I think with diesel series LR ones but they were very hard and transmitted vibration, but I imagine you would be hard pushed to brake them. I still have them somewhere!

Manual VVT, 2 1/2" lift, ORA castor corrected arms, 2" ORA body lift, 4:1 transfer box, Uprated front shafts & CVs ERM , ARBs back & front 3.9 diffs, 6 point cage, ORA winch bumper - Superwinch EP9, ORA rear bumper, ORA axle truses, Diff guards ERM , TBR tank guard, Snorkel, Kumho KL71.30.9.50 15
Last edit: 01 Nov 2010 08:06 by Obarno.

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01 Nov 2010 08:22 #5621 by mlines
I would certainly not describe the change in mine as being a "horrible din". I would more describe it as a "feeling", if you place both your feet on the floor you can feel the vibration through your feet. If it is causing a lot of noise I would guess you have problems elsewhere that the mounts are magnifying in some way.

Martin

Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses

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01 Nov 2010 08:52 #5623 by Obarno
Its not so much the noise which really isn't bad but its the harshness that you can feel through the whole car. If you put the transfer box in neutral and the auto in drive and rev to about 4000 rpm the whole car buzzes and everything vibrates. That can't be right or good for the gearboxes. The centre prop was made by a company near Heathrow from the original Jimny and fitted with a new Sammi flange, then balanced. It could be the prop but somehow I think its unlikely. I did at first think it was the rear prop as that was an old Sammi one with a little wear in it, so I had an adaptor made to fit the original Jimny prop to the Sammi output flange but unfortunately it made no difference!

Manual VVT, 2 1/2" lift, ORA castor corrected arms, 2" ORA body lift, 4:1 transfer box, Uprated front shafts & CVs ERM , ARBs back & front 3.9 diffs, 6 point cage, ORA winch bumper - Superwinch EP9, ORA rear bumper, ORA axle truses, Diff guards ERM , TBR tank guard, Snorkel, Kumho KL71.30.9.50 15

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01 Nov 2010 17:44 #5635 by Jamie
My personal opinion is to scrap the polybushes and use the std rubber suzuki ones!!
I use them as a fuse in the drivetrain to save me doing any further damage
to the T/Box like ripping the side out.....
I usually have 2 spares in my glovebox just in case and its 2 spanners
to change one!!! I run the Rockwatt setup with the rockbucket!!!

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01 Nov 2010 17:59 #5637 by kirkynut
My transfer box is a Rockwatt set up and not an ORA box but they use the same polybushes with the bolt going all the way through.

As Rockwatt boxes use old gears with new - this creates the "horrible din" I speak of - made worse though I suggest by the effectively solid mounting of the bolt that goes through the mounts and the chassis. Rockwatt's are half the price of other suppliers though! With this in mind I can accept my horrible din until they have meshed together better!

So, sorry Rob - it's no reflection on your boxes or mounts - just the solid mounting of the nylon bushes. I must try loosening them somewhat as per your advise for your kits though - I overtighten everything from drinks bottles to prop bolts!

I can feel that vibration through the floor you speak of Martin - glad it's not just me as it did worry me at first, but I'd had no vibration in my old props and had my new one supposedly balanced.

I had KAP heavy duty mounts on the SJ, so could try them, but they are expensive, as are new standard suzuki ones. I might just put up with my horrible din until it has a few more miles on it!

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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01 Nov 2010 18:25 #5642 by Jamie
Kirky,
They all use new and old gears together!!! Apart from Rob Store on the lower 6.1 etc where he cuts new gears!!
But all Rocklobsters are a "cut and shut" type job!!
I went for the Rockwatt because he puts the gears together right and they are pinned and welded, I have
seen some spectacular failures with some others, and i know a lot of people who run richards box's, but thats just me!!!!

just buy a length of poly or stiff rubber and make your own bushes, Works out a lot cheaper!!!

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01 Nov 2010 18:52 #5647 by kirkynut
Cheers for that Jamie - I didn't realise they all ran old and new together. I went for Richard's because of the reputation he has forged too and have heard of others failing.

In respect of the transmission noise - I might just stop being a big jessie - suck it up and live with it - I used to run a soft top SJ after all and drove to the Lakes and Wales in that - so even with the transmission noise - my Jimny is luxury in comparison! Much quieter than one of those pesky Landrover things with those noisy diesel things under the bonnet!!!

I'll just turn the radio up!!

The Rocklobster is a wonderful thing off road too!!!

Kirkynut

The underdog often starts the fight, and occasionally the upper dog deserves to win - Edgar Watson Howe.

My Jimny Thread Here: www.bigjimny.com/index.php/forum/8-my-ji...on-continues?start=0

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02 Nov 2010 08:05 #5656 by Obarno
Thanks guys for all your answers and advice. I think probably a little experimenting will solve the problem. As a matter of interest Jamie did you use Jimny std mountings or Sammi which I think are a bit harder?
Has anyone got a D&G (or Measson) kit which uses a std rear prop and if so have you had any problems with it?

Manual VVT, 2 1/2" lift, ORA castor corrected arms, 2" ORA body lift, 4:1 transfer box, Uprated front shafts & CVs ERM , ARBs back & front 3.9 diffs, 6 point cage, ORA winch bumper - Superwinch EP9, ORA rear bumper, ORA axle truses, Diff guards ERM , TBR tank guard, Snorkel, Kumho KL71.30.9.50 15

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