Grinding noise after 4wd used

Hi i'm new to ths forum and Jimnys.

Brought one for the wife last oct, its an 01 plate with 88k on the clock. as its only a road car at moment (she won't let me take it off road yet) it wasn't until the snow arrived that 4wd was used and then only briefly. After using 4wd to getout of works car park and putting back into 2wd there was an awful grinding noise coming from the car. It sounded like the front diff was about to explode orrip itself to bits. Its gone now but just rather wary of using 4wd again, just in case it comes back

Sounds like one of the front hubs isnt disengaging all the way of the transfer box isnt fully disengaged

many thanks for those 2 .... where do i go now, my mechanicing skills used to be rather good .. just not tried them in few yrs! which problem shall i address first? or check first

Gear stick is easy to check
Just cycle it through a few times 2wd 4h 4l
Then the hubs jack a corner and spin the wheel , then put in 4wd and spin again
This will tell you if hubs are stuck

The hubs will only engage/disengage with the ignition on, and some vacuum in the tank, so usually the engine has to be running due to leaks.

So if you follow Reapers suggestion, do the 4wd 2wd 4wd 2wd lever stuff engine off, and then jack up to see if the hubs were stuck.

Standing with the engine ticking over, wind down a window and you should hear Clickclick when you engage 4wd, and the green light should come on straight away steady, then clackclack if you move back to 2wd, this means the hubs are likely working.

clickclick & clackclack happen as fast as you can say it, if you get click...2...3...click there is a vacuum leak.

There is loads of info on the system, and several threads on here, but the hubs rely on perfect wheel bearings to operate, if the wheel bearing has gone, there will be a leak, and the hub wont disengage, (it won't need to engage either, as it is always engaged)

But facade if the hub was stuck on due to the pipe being split and the hub not being released then puting the leaver in 4wd L or H with the engine of and jacked up then it would still be in 4wd

Plus if you put your jimny in 4wd anr swich the engine of then it would still be in 4wd as there is no vacuum to pull them off

Yes, I thought that was what reaper wanted to check, if a hub was stuck now, so stopping the hubs operating whilst making sure the transmission selector is in 2wd fully would be the way to check.

Running the engine whilst moving the lever will try and operate the hubs, if they free up now, you wont know if they were stuck in the first place.

With the lever moved to 4wd and back to 2wd when the engine is off, the hubs stay disengaged (hopefully) so jacking a front wheel, it should spin freely. If one is still locked it should be possible to feel the load of the diff.

Although thinking about it, best to do this test straight away, with it still in the originally selected 2wd, it should be possible to rotate the front propshaft with no noises or roughness.

My guess is the release is weak due to a shot bearing, rotten pipe or even just rust on the cv splines stopping the hub centre sliding, and the grinding is an almost engaged hub trying to turn the driveshaft. A leak on the engage side will delay the green light, or make it flash, but there is no leak test for disengage.

Could be front diff pinion bearing. Mine did this, one hub would stay engaged and turn the diff. Check for play in the pinion and a leak at the back of the diff.

Worth a look.

Well thanks chap, as i've been working all weekend not had chance to read all this info properly but i've loads to go on now when i get a day off on weds.

at least i now have a starting point )