trailer wiring

kirkynut wrote: Does this help:

www.bigjimny.com/images/documents/jimny_towbar_install.pdf

It did me!

Did it yesterday but I didn't rip the interior of the car out, instead I hooked up to the wiring from the loom that crossed from the rear n/s to the o/s using lives from the n/s rear lights for the side lights and brake lights, as it's from the same feed anyway and then it was the green and yellow wire going across to the rear o/s that feeds the indicator that side.

Hey kirky,
I was reading that the best way is to splice in new copper braiding, then solder the joint and finally heatshrink tubing over joint to keep out the water. I even thought about smearing the joint with silicone sealant then sliding heat shrink over that (old trick we used to do for underground mains). You could wrap insulating or amalg tape over that to be sure. Depends how paranoid you wanna be.

I used crimp connectors and wrapped electrical tape round lots to waterproof. Water will get in there eventually but it's easy enough to replace crimp terminals and clean them up.

Ripping the interior apart will keep it all dry but I could see the wires staring at me cable ties to my tow bar so it was much less hassle doing it this way!

Kirkynut

will be have a go in the morning now as got new box trailer to day sweet

Yep, I began trying to solder it but both my talent and patience ran out trying to solder it in situ on the tow bar, so I gave up and went to crimpies and plenty o' electrical tape. I considered self amalgamating tape but the leccy tape looked good enough.

I didn't have large enough heat shrink for the solder joints and I'd just got back from Maplin's about 4 miles away and really couldn't be bothered with the traffic again!

If it plays up in a couple of years I'll have another look but it should be ok for a while. I know it might play up if water gets in and it's easy to get go if it needs tlc!

Kirkynut