Ignition feed to switch on a bonnet relay

The horn is permanent, I've replaced it with a bigger one and did the math on it. Hmm, the wipers are a very interesting idea; will look into it ! Thank you.

This is what I've done on virtually every vehicle I've owned. Connect an Albright contactor (rated at 500A or so) to an ignition feed and have three heavy bus-bars under the bonnet connecting to Battery live, Ignition Live and ground - plus a fourth for Aux Battery where appropriate.

Make the wiring & bus bars heavy enough and you can connect winch(es) to it as well as lights etc.

It keeps all the aux wiring in one place and makes it very easy to find an appropriate feed for whatever you want to connect in future.

On my Vitara it was bolted to the bulkhead and on my 110 it lives inside a plastic box bolted to the inner wing. It also makes a convenient place to put the split-charge and potentially winch contactor as well.

Si

That's actually a very good idea; it would make the positive part of the circuit look like below, right ?

The only adequate fusebox (two positive bars, one negative bar) I found is this one:

Seems right for the job, except it's quite big. Can't find a smaller variant though, 6 way would have been enough.

Later edit: hmm, I found some interesting stuff.

www.fuzeblocks.com/index.php?pid=1#board
www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml
bluesea.com/products/5030
www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Power_Distribution_Fuse_Boxes.html

Time to see who's brave enough to ship to Romania :laugh:

Spot on!

For the bus bars however, I used copper strips 20mm x 10mm drilled & tapped along the length with a number of M6 & M10 threads - for small & large loads. I then have a regular fusebox (from vehicle wiring products IIRC) for the lower current loads.

In the past I have used bi-metallic self resetting fuses (bought from maplin) with an LED wired across the terminals. If there is a fault, it disconnects when the bi-metallic strip has heated up sufficiently. When it cools, it re-connects. If there is still a fault, the process repeats. When the fuse opens, the LED lights - so if you mount the LEDs on the outside of the fuse box and see a blinking LED, you know which circuit has a fault immediately. This has made diagnosis and repair much quicker during competitions in particular. You do have to remember to write a label for each LED though!

Si

Any of these any good?

www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/Performance/Elect...Fuse_Relay_Boxes/646

www.europaspares.com/57/ELECTRICAL/FUSES_and_BOXES.html

www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Electrical/...nd_Fuse_Boxes,b.html

Yep, seen 'em all and browsed eBay back and forth. The Fuzeblock looks to be the closest to what I want: relay + fuses in one small and sturdy box, V+/GND/live inputs and 6 outputs which can be changed to permanent or switched only. I'll order one on Monday and take the live input with a tap-a-fuse (from front foglights fuse) or a posi-tap (from cigarette socket).