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Well now - back in October I had read of shorting a white connector to do just as you say, and I was in the process of doing just that when 'help' arrived, and we got it up on ramps, the shorting process abandoned. So I have not as yet attempted that shorting process. I need to do this - but 'the white one under the battery' - is this the cylindrical gadget beneath the two blue tandem solenoids? I don't want to be shorting out the wrong Item!
Update today 10 Jan:
Found the two pin white connector beneath the battery. Made a short piece of wire to connect the female contacts in the socket. Battery back in, start up. Whether 2wd or 4wd via the manual hubs - no drive to the front wheels. Bye the bye, discovered a vacuum pipe dislodged from the T piece leading to the under wing reservoir. Replaced, started again, same result. Last person under the bonnet was Steve.
In all my years of owning motorcycles and cars (I'm 78) I have worked on my own vehicles. Lately the lack of joint flexibility has led me to garages that will do what I physically find very difficult. It has turned into an expensive choice (if you can call it a 'choice').
I'm sensing this is a replacement transfer box job. Such fun.
Last edit: 10 Jan 2026 15:50 by Degsy. Reason: Added text.
Minor update:
Upon advice to blank off the vacuum pipes beneath the brake servo reservoir so as to stop any vacuum to the hubs, and removing the 'shorted' wire and reconnecting the white lead and socket, it seems to have provided a 'different feel' when engaging the manual hubs, like something is engaging rather than nothing at all. But, with all the slippery stuff now melted away, a positive test in not available. I will need to raise the car up and check the hubs for engagement to tell if all is working.
However, our second and much used vehicle has just thrown the towel in with transmission failure, great.
Will check back as and when. Thanks for the suggestions so far.
Nothing you do with the vacuum system will affect the operation of the manual hubs. Once manual hubs are fitted and the white connector is bridged the entire vacuum system is redundant. It can be completely removed or left in place, but it makes no odds to the operation of 4wd.
Blocking the pipes and having the white connector connected will achieve the same thing as bridging the connector.
You need to focus your investigations on the transfer case, not the vacuum system.
Just a quick one; Chatted to the guy who checked the transfer case and its operation back in Early November. He stated that the 'motor' that drove the engagement was free and clear, not seized. But when 2wd was select on the buttons, it operated as it should, but when the button was released it reverted to 4wdL. This would indicate to me that something was feeding the motor current when it shouldn't.
I have blanked the vacuum pipes off beneath the brake vacuum reservoir, and the white lead is reconnected, the shorting lead removed. I really need to test the thing properly, it should be working on the manual hubs, but our support car has just eaten a CV drive joint, so attention is diverted and the Jimny is the wifes drive to work etc.
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