For those who have an auto

I think the braking-as-traction-control only works well in certain circumstances, basically with certain types of LSD.  Otherwise the torque you are gaining at the non-spinning wheel is exactly that lost in the braking.  The traction control systems only brake the spinning wheel.

I have a friend who used to drive a JDM MX-5 and he got home in fairly bad snow by using the handbrake.  The JDM cars have a Torsen LSD and, while this can't cope with really low grip at one wheel (it will still spin up and take all the power), loading up both rear wheels with the handbrake enables the Torsen to do its job.  An LSD with friction clutches may cope better without the handbrake trick.

Lambert wrote:

 Is this something that is new only to me and I should be putting time into mastering? 

If you do intend to use this technique I would suggest you consider adding an external transmission cooler and, at the very least, fitting a transmission temperature gauge.

Based on what I have read the automatic transmission used in the Jimny is close to the limit on the power it can handle - what I know from experience, (not with a Jimny automatic), is that holding the car on the brake with the throttle open causes fluid churn in the torque converter and the fluid temperatures "sky rocket" - research "torque converter stall test" for more detail.

I'm not into rock crawling, but, my experience with automatics in sand, again not in a Jimny, is that they run hot, to the point that I feel anyone driving an automatic in any sort of serious/frequent off road usage should have at the very least, a transmission temperature gauge, that way you'll know how hot you're running the transmission, long before you "cook" it.

It might also be an idea to review the "severe driving conditions" maintenance schedule, I think the fluid change recommendations are very different.

I've driven Moab a few times in automatic Jeeps. Yes, a lot of people do use a little left foot braking, for the reasons you've given - but it's only really necessary on really technical, steep hill climbs. Worth remembering that in Moab you're driving on slick rock - which despite the name has phenomenal grip - so crazy climb angles and side slopes are feasible, and the potential for shock loading the transmission is high. I've used this a few times in a Jeep XJ in the UK and Europe, buts been much less useful/necessary. Can't comment on how this would apply with a Jimny, I'll defer to the other guys on that one.