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What's the normal lifespan of an alternator? (Gen 3)
- GandHisJimny
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First being that the belt simply needs tightening. I went out and had a look, seemed tight enough, but I still tried to tighten it further anyway (annoyingly fiddly job but did it). Problem still there. The condition of the belt itself looks fine and the battery was replaced just a few months ago (before I purchased the vehicle).
So that leaves me thinking it could be a pulley or the alternator / alternator bearings. Since it's only on start-up that to me says it's maybe the alternator "pinching" as it tries to re-generate the lost energy from the start-up?
Given all this, what is a normal life expectancy of a Gen 3 Jimny alternator? For reference mine is a 2007 ~75k miles. I'm thinking it's probably long in the tooth enough that it could be what's ailing it. Especially given I have a head unit and dashcam up front drawing a bit more power.
Jimmer II (2007 JLX+ auto in black & silver) : Android head unit, Black Raptor Steering Damper, Yokohama Geolandar G015s, rear cabin light, OEM wind deflectors
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- GandHisJimny
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The car has only done 20k miles in those 5 years so would explain why the belt looks in reasonable condition but it has been long enough that it could just be degraded.
Jimmer II (2007 JLX+ auto in black & silver) : Android head unit, Black Raptor Steering Damper, Yokohama Geolandar G015s, rear cabin light, OEM wind deflectors
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Martin
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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I have this same problem on my other vehicle, a 1984 Chevrolet C20 with a 6.2 v8 diesel. It just uses a standard vee belt, and the way its set up the vibrations/ harmonics from the big diesel means that to tighten the belt where it won't squeal /slip meant I was changing nose bearings once a year at least. I swapped the nose bearing (after a bit of machining) with a double row bearing and so far seems to have helped. Chevrolet went to microvee belts later for this reason.
If you're confident with mechanical stuff I can't see why you couldn't replace just the bearings if that's the issue. I've haven't had a jimny one apart so others could confirm, most others I've had in bits used fairly common bearings. Assuming of course, your alternator is functioning as its meant to electrically.
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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- GandHisJimny
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@Lambert
It's both a chirping and a screaming noise Basically if it's a colder / wetter day and I start the car and sit still - especially with high draw electrical components on like heated mirrors & headlights - then it'll quietly chirp-chirp-chirp-chirp-chirp. When I then put it into gear and start driving it screeches like a banshee for maybe the first 30 seconds of the journey. My usual response is to let my foot off the accelerator and roll a little (turn off heated mirrors if on) which makes the noise go away. Sometimes after doing that it immediately fixes it for the rest of the journey, other times I have to do a few "cycles" of screech-and-roll before it goes away.If it's more of a chirping or a screaming noise it could be the idler pulley bearing.
What never happens is screeching after a long drive or randomly 5 minutes into a drive. It's exclusively to do with start-ups, presumably because the alternator works harder to recharge the battery.
Jimmer II (2007 JLX+ auto in black & silver) : Android head unit, Black Raptor Steering Damper, Yokohama Geolandar G015s, rear cabin light, OEM wind deflectors
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- GandHisJimny
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Jimmer II (2007 JLX+ auto in black & silver) : Android head unit, Black Raptor Steering Damper, Yokohama Geolandar G015s, rear cabin light, OEM wind deflectors
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I remember seeing an alternator upgrade someone did on a Jimny a while back where they fitted an idler wheel to increase the belt wrap. Even then it's pretty marginal to run a 100+ amp alternator on a small 4pk belt. Most larger alternators come with a 6pk pulley but to fit a 6pk belt you would have to change all of the other pulleys, which is a pretty major job.
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If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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- GandHisJimny
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@facade - That's pretty disturbing about the crank pulley disintegrating!! What was the vibration like? I have found that I sometimes get a low rumbling vibration when sitting in Drive but with my foot on the brake (worse in Reverse). Once I start moving it goes away. I thought it would be the "transmission / gearbox mount" but even after replacing that it's still there. I get a slight rumble when I'm idling and use the window switches too lol but I think that's just the alternator being worked.
Jimmer II (2007 JLX+ auto in black & silver) : Android head unit, Black Raptor Steering Damper, Yokohama Geolandar G015s, rear cabin light, OEM wind deflectors
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Mine was manual, and it happened when pulling away just before it was time to change up.
The pulley is incredibly poorly designed, tensioning the alternator belt tries to rip the pulley apart, and is resisted by tensioning the power steering belt.
Grab the outer flange of the pulley and try and rip it off the car, if there is any movement whatsoever, it is time for a new one.
Here is my sketch of a section through the pulley to show what I mean.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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