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Dual motor (one for the front and one for the back) would need a control system and if you were using a Tesla battery and motor you might as well use the Tesla controller.
However, this is going to be very compllcated and expensive (like upwards of £25k, may be less if you can do all of the work yourself) so I suggest something off the peg.
You can get an off the shelf kit for a land rover that provides 120kw to the transfer box but I cannot see a jimny being happy with 900nm in its transfer. I was more thinking about the single motor tesla with the reduction set and diff that would be simpler to get working.
Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
My main problem is towing our caravan, electric vehicles are not so good at this yet, it murders the battery range.
Travelling to Scotland would be a nightmare. However a hybrid vehicle would work, not sure how environmentally friendly these are but in my day to day work l could drive round on electricity as l rarely exceed 30 miles in a day.
Sadly they're not generally available in Commercial Vehicles so my new Defender Commercial is a MHEV diesel.
MHEV is just a system that makes it possible for manufacturers to claim lower emissions, l don't think it really does very much at all for the environment.
Apparantly it's to do with the stop/start system but l turned that off anyway because l hate it.
Yes, MHEV uses recovered energy from a freewheeling alternator and a smallish lithium battery to run all the parasitic electrical loads.
The Mazda implementation gives totally seamless stop-start with no sound or delay. I think it's done by the alternator (which can also function as a motor) and clever combustion. No starter motor involved.
You can get an off the shelf kit for a land rover that provides 120kw to the transfer box but I cannot see a jimny being happy with 900nm in its transfer. I was more thinking about the single motor tesla with the reduction set and diff that would be simpler to get working.
With an aftermarket or programmable controller it should be no problem to reduce and control the torque from the elmotor. It is done in the variable frequency drive controller. Do it all the time on the ships I design equipment for so there is full torque only at full rpm to save axle diameter and weight.
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