Off Topic question on locking your nuts up

This has nothing to do with a Jimny.
However it's a testament to how good this forum is that I am asking for opinions here. I've asked on the correct site, but it's a disappointing field of tumble weed as far as comments go. Evidence is starting to suggest that 4x4 people are just better with spanners than other marques.

The first picture is of a hub nut. It holds the rear drum / bearings on an axle, ultimately the complete rear road wheel. It's done up fairly tight after which the nut outer edge (thin bit) is peened into the slot you can see in the axle. It's not a massive peen, but just enough to stop the nut turning easily.
This has some issues.

​​​1. Removing the nut requires you to try and remove the peen, most don't or can't.
2. IF the nut is removed without clearing the peen, it eventually damages the first few mm of axle thread, 
3. Damaged axle thread eventually scraps the axle, not enough good thread to reach torque level.
4. You can only use the nut once if you peen it.

My personal plan to elevate the above issues is.
1. Fit new nuts,
2. Torque them up.
3. Drill a 3mm hole in the outer edge and fit a split pin.

This will mean the nuts can be reused and causes no further damage to the axle thread.

The second picture shows a nut with split pin fitted, it's been fitted and remove to test I can do it. The split pin is fitted as shown, fat end within axle slot, tails on the outside.

So to all you armchair engineers, am I missing something?   
My plan dangerous because a peen provides " txt here".
Just open for discussion,  comments good or bad at this time. All comments can be offered without fear of liability, it's my decision if I make this change or not, just to put minds at rest.

Thanks Mike 
 
 

Well you know it’s never coming out unless you take the split pin out first, so looks good to me.

My other car has a hub nut that it done in to mind bending torque, my mate bent his 3/4 drive breaker bar trying to take it off swinging around on the end of a 6ft extension bar, once you get to those levels of torque, something moves or something breaks, so a split pin is a really good solution, at least it will come out in the future.

Robin

My only observation would be the resolution that offers isn't very high so unless you are able to test fit and shim accordingly the applied torque will be off. My remedy would be to look for half nuts in a suitable size then you can set the torque and lock it exactly instead of going to some nearest point.

My background and daily work is designing gearboxes and propellers for ships. Large stuff so many of our designs and solutions is not directly comparable to car stuff but still. We use nuts with internal locking devices like set screws or locking with a piece of tin that folds over the nut like the SJ hub. Sizes often from 150 to 300mm diameter but the principal idea is the same. For "smaller" (M40 to M60) bolts we often weld a 6mm locking wire (it is a steel bar actually) between/over the nuts or bolts so they cannot turn.

Your locking pin is ok but the nut material is soft at the ring there where your hole is. And a bit worried about the pin too if it is the soft kind or more strong. Should be ok but vibrations may wear out the materials if they occur. If the soft nut is knocked into the groove in the axle the friction wil prevent vibration and the nut should stay locked. I have used the original way of locking the Suzuki flange bolts for years and have made rather minor dents if I know I am going to loosen them myself. Also taking care not to make a sharp indentation in the ring on the nut to make a breaking point. A proper dent with a blunt hammer or tool is ok and make it easier to knock out later.

Hi Mike.

Your plan with the split pin will work although I would squash the head and tails together to lock them into the nut edge and then add a dollop of nut lock to firmly secure the split pin in place and stop it vibrating, which, over a period of time, could cause it to fail.
Or.
If you remove the nut only after extended periods of time, stick to the peening and have a spare nut handy. After all, that extended period of time could be years.

Roger

The benefit of using the nut you have is that it fits the shaft you have. My personal view on half nuts is that you would have to find suitable nuts, plus the locking washer that goes between them and then hope that the washer has the central tab that will fit the groove on the shaft. I write this string with the knowledge off working with my SJ and LC where they used the twin nut system and although they worked they were a pain to set the pre-load because the outer nut always upset any pre-load already set when you tightened it. That and the fact that the outer nut was the one that took all the load when it was tightened. As I said, these are my own views on the subject.

Roger

Thanks everyone for taking the time to comment.

Good to know I am not missing something obvious.

Robin - Yes it's very tight, has its own special socket with 3/4inch drive as yours, but not bent it at the moment. Hopefully the split pin will make it a little easier.

Lambert - Yes resolution is a potential issue if things start to move. My idea is not perfect in some circumstances. For the most part it should go back to the same point at the same torque, so once fitted and drilled future removal / refit should result in the same place. However, if the bearing fails or is replaced it's going to move, but I can always drill another hole. Half nuts may be difficult to obtain, these nuts are manufactured specifically for this application. I personally would also be fearful of attempting to torque half the thread area to torque, in my head it's 50% down on a full nut but would still need to support full torque. If I damage the axle thread it's scrap and my pocket takes a £400 hit, so not a risk I want to take.

Yakuza - valid point on the materials. The nut is not overly hard nor the pins, so long term movement could be an issue. The good news is that the vehicle is low on mileage, high on maintenance, so it should be changed way before it wears out. It's also very easy to check it's condition once fitted, so I can add this check to my maintenance schedule.

Roger - yes I'll control it's vibration potential. May see if I can mechanically lock it by careful bending, if not a dab of something as suggested will be used. You are correct in that it's something not removed that often, but the vehicle has been on stands and generally in the way for over 3 weeks. My "stocked" spare nuts didn't fit, possible poor manufacturing, and the replacements, once posted via 24hr tracked, took a further 6 days to arrive. During this time I decided there must be a better way, causing less axle damage and saving me £12 a nut, hence my want to investigate this option.

So once again thanks for all the comments, I have decided I am going to do it as soon as I fix the other thing I broke 

The hidden morel to this story is never touch a runner.

Mike

 

Do you have the thread size and dia. of the nut?

Roger

No unfortunately. Not much point asking on the correct forum as its not very active. I'll try and find out, it's sometimes reference as 44mm, but I am sure that's just a misleading comment rather than fact. Large and fine is about it at the moment  ​​​​​​
Mike

My mistake, I should have said dia. of threaded section of spindle.

Roger