Bleeding the brakes on a Jimny 3 with ABS

Hi All

How easy is it to bleed the brakes on a Jimny 3 (2018) with ABS. Not done any brake bleeding
for a number of years and I've to replace the 2 rear brake hoses. Heard all sorts of horror stories
about bleeding brakes with ABS installed. Also do I need to have the engine running or not.

Any help, thoughts, advice appreciated.

Cheers Porky.
Booked and will be attending the Big Jimny Meet North if I get these hoses replaced

I don't believe its any different, especially if you avoid air in the ABS pump. 
So that's engine off.
Stand to be corrected by those that know the Jimny better, so will read with interest myself.

I've bled numerous cars with ABS fitted, not a Gen.3 although I can't imagine the process being different. 

So long as you don't allow the brake reservoir to run dry whilst bleeding you won't have issues drawing air into the ABS module. So if you're working by yourself with a 1 man bleed kit, check the reservoir regularly and keep it brimmed to the top whilst bleeding. If you're working with a buddy, have them check the reservoir regularly. 

Removing air from the ABS module is a simple process but you usually need car specific diagnostic/programming equipment, the operator manually activates the ABS pump using the software then continues bleeding. That shouldn't be required unless you're carrying out a full brake system drain OR disturbing the ABS module itself. 

Re Scimike's Comment above: I've bled both my BMW & Disco with the engine running in the past so that I've got full pedal feedback through the servo, in my experience that won't make a difference. The only way you'll allow air into your ABS module is by draining the reservoir dry during bleeding OR intentionally draining the entire system down (this also could be done accidentally by leaving a brake line disconnected for long period of time). 

On Dreadnaught which was a 2011 I had to do a full from dry bleeding and it was possible without any abs tools but took 3 goes over 24 hours to get the very best pedal. The only difference is the 4th flex line on the 18 so I can't see it being radically different.

Some may think this is witchcraft or just pure BS.. a length of 4x2 wedged between the seat and pedal overnight will force any air locks up into the reservoir. I didn't believe it until had terrible issues bleeding the slave & master cylinder on my LR.. worked a treat, had full pedal in the morning! 

wrote:

Some may think this is witchcraft or just pure BS.. a length of 4x2 wedged between the seat and pedal overnight will force any air locks up into the reservoir. I didn't believe it until had terrible issues bleeding the slave & master cylinder on my LR.. worked a treat, had full pedal in the morning! 
 

It works, it is common with motorbikes and nowadays pushbikes, you pull the lever back hard, then ziptie it, and in the morning there is a full brake.

I'm not sure if what actually happens is the pistons set further out giving less pad clearance, and less lever travel, either way it definitely works.