Which pipe or pipes do I block up

The photo in the guide was mine as I wrote the guide.

I just popped out to the garage and took a clearer shot as below. It's the pipe off the T piece that would go down to the hard pipes to provide the vacuum, so now it's sucking on the bolt.

By doing it this way you can leave the electronics as they are and as long as there's no vacuum leak from the pipe off this T piece that appears to go via 2 other T pieces to the inlet of my non VVT 2000 twin cam. Yours is VVT, so it might be a slightly different layout.



Then rip off everything on the axle and use a bit of plastic pipe to link the two parts of the steering knuckle/hub to stop water ingress, as per my guide photos. I forget where mine came from but wiper squirter pipe will likely be right and can be obtained easily from Halfords, motor factors or the internet.

Kirkynut

Thanks the new picture is clearer. Have you plugged both tubes with screws. My manual hubs should arrive on Thursday so weather permitting I’m going to have a go at sorting this out once and for all!!!!

Tinbox wrote: Thanks the new picture is clearer. Have you plugged both tubes with screws. My manual hubs should arrive on Thursday so weather permitting I’m going to have a go at sorting this out once and for all!!!!

I only seemed to have one to block. I have no vacuum leaks.

Kirkynut

Oops!!! now I’m confused I’ve blocked both pipes and the green light is still flashing. Any ideas?????

Tinbox wrote: Oops!!! now I’m confused I’ve blocked both pipes and the green light is still flashing. Any ideas?????

Short out the switch, there must still be a vacuum leak.

There are two electric solenoid vacuum valves. Both should route atmosphere to the hubs when off (via a little filter), and block the vacuum line.

When either is activated, it changes over to route vacuum to one side of the hub, and atmospheric pressure pushes the hub over from the other side through the non-activated valve.
If the disengage solenoid valve seizes up, it sticks so that the vacuum line connects to atmosphere, and you can never build up a vacuum in the tank, or activate the vacuum switch even if the engage solenoid valve is working.

Thanks. I think bit by bit I’m beginning to understand the workings of the vacuum system. I am going to try using a scotchlok across the two white wires as Riccy suggested. Hopefully once I’ve fooled the electronics all should be good. My manual hubs have arrived today so it’s out with the t10 torx tomorrow. Any pit falls I need to look out for. My hubs are designed for the Jimny so I’ve no spacers etc to worry about. I’ll post the result on here when it’s done. Thanks again for all the help so far. Not only are Jinny’s great vehicles but clearly the owners are decent and helpful folk too!!!

Just use some sealant or instant gasket between the freewheeling hub and the car.

Without seeing photos of your pipes I'm not sure what you have on your car. Fooling the electronics is fine for the light but make sure you don't have a vacuum leak.

Kirkynut

Just tried the scotchloc method of shorting across the two white wires and success Thanks Riccy. Now onto putting on my manual hubs. They are designed for the Jimny so no messing with spacers etc Am I right in thinking I just remove the old vacuum hubs and slide on the manual hubs.

Thanks Kirkynut The new hubs are on and all seems OK. A massive thanks to all those who offered advice to get me sorted, I really wouldn’t be sat here now with a beaming smile on my face and more importantly a Jimny with full
4 x 4 capabilities again without your help

Your welcome and I'm glad its sorted.

If you are going to be hopping between tarmac and non-grippy surfaces (like going between green-lanes), it is ok to leave the manual hubs in 4x4 and just put the transfer box into 2wd and back to 4wd as needed. The front prop, diff and half-shafts will be driven by the wheels, leading to slightly poorer fuel consumption. No damage will occur however (as long as you put it in 2wd for grippy surfaces) and it saves you getting in & out of the car at every surface change. At the end of the trip, flick the hubs back off for the drive home

The reverse of this can be used to get 2wd low-box, which can be useful for maneuvering trailers