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GEN 4 Jimny undersealing
Thanks
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The Gen 4 seems not to have some of the rust traps of the Gen 3- the front body mounts are different, but adds a couple of new ones - there are two rust trap boxes on the sides of the chassis that I can't see what they are for.
Anti-corrosion warrantys are generally worthless, as they rely on paying for an annual inspection and any corrosion to be treated (expensively) and are only for rust that has penetrated entirely from the inside (which I suppose was the case with front & rear mounts on the Gen 3, but no doubt there would be some exclusion because it develops at seams)
My Gen 3 managed to get to 19 without any welding (it needed it then though), I Dinitrol'd it when I got it at 9 years old, I'm hoping this one will get to 25 by dinitroling from new. (No doubt it will be electronics failures that kill this one)
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there

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- Andy2640
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Micheal wrote: I've just acquired an SZ4 and am less than impressed by the pattern of undersealing on the vehicle. Given known Suzuki rust problems on the Gen 3 Jimny and other vehicles (I had a Grand Vitara that rusted badly by year 10) would you advise undersealing? The dealer advises that Suzuki will state that having this undersealing will invalidate the 12 year corrosion warranty.
Thanks
That pricked my ears up.
In what way is the anti-corrosion pattern no good? First time ive heard someone comment on the stock anti-corrostion protection.
Ive had a good grope of the wheel arch protection, which seems a little thin. Ive also noticed some abrasions and cuts in the layer of protection (whatever it is) seems like some sort of gum. But these cuts have gone right through the layer, and expose the metal work. If rust starts there, it is effectively compromised... no?
Mhhhh, i gotta this booked in asap.
Edit: Also a bit worried about the potent odour this ditrinol treatment causes. Has anyones odour faded yet? (Giggle giggle lol).
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The reason mine stinks is I pulled the rear and sill trim and gave it a good dose on the inside round the rear wheelarches, down into the rear body mounts, across the rear crossmember, and down the bottom of the B pillars (crikey! I forgot the A posts and inside the screen pillars!- something to do next week I suppose..) You have to remove the seat belt reels to do it properly.
I'm running round with no trim, hoping the solvent will evaporate quicker than if I covered it all over. with hard plastic.
I bought a kit to do mine, and I've loads of the black underbody wax left, I suppose I can give it a fresh coat every few months under the wheelarches.
I had to buy a wax injection gun though, the schutz gun I have has a tube that needs bigger holes drilling than stock- I spent half a day making a narrow tube and nozzle and it didn't work, as there wasn't enough flow over the paint tube.
Probably easier and about the same total price to just get it done.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there

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- Digger1
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