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Clutch slipping..? I think.
- lukeyblunt
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21 Sep 2012 20:12 #48500
by lukeyblunt
Clutch slipping..? I think. was created by lukeyblunt
Hi Everyone..
I went to overtake a tractor the other day.. plopped it down a few gears and put my foot down.
It just revved as if my foot was on the clutch.. then gradually started to bite as the rpm decreased.
Seems as though the clutch may be worn. That was my first thought.
Any suggestions on anything else that it may be.. or quick solutions..? :dry:
It's very hit and miss, whether it decides to bite or not.. so i daren't overtake tractors or slow Daewoo drivers.
Many thanks,
Luke.
I went to overtake a tractor the other day.. plopped it down a few gears and put my foot down.
It just revved as if my foot was on the clutch.. then gradually started to bite as the rpm decreased.
Seems as though the clutch may be worn. That was my first thought.
Any suggestions on anything else that it may be.. or quick solutions..? :dry:
It's very hit and miss, whether it decides to bite or not.. so i daren't overtake tractors or slow Daewoo drivers.
Many thanks,
Luke.
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- lukeyblunt
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Public
22 Sep 2012 13:06 #48537
by j999pre
Gold Jimny the best colour (sold)
Big red Jimny 32" tyres, arbs, cage 5:1 transfer etc. (Sold)
Grey pick up Jimny
Turbo m13a, arbs, floating rear shafts, disc conversion rear, vented front conversion. 245 70 16. Winch, 3" lift, 4:16 trans hd shafts and CVS
Replied by j999pre on topic Clutch slipping..? I think.
the adjuster is exposed to all sorts of mud etc. it may be worth taking the end of the cable off and wd 40 it. Then refit and adjust. Good luck
Gold Jimny the best colour (sold)
Big red Jimny 32" tyres, arbs, cage 5:1 transfer etc. (Sold)
Grey pick up Jimny
Turbo m13a, arbs, floating rear shafts, disc conversion rear, vented front conversion. 245 70 16. Winch, 3" lift, 4:16 trans hd shafts and CVS
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22 Sep 2012 15:05 #48542
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Clutch slipping..? I think.
As the clutch wears, the plate gets thinner, and the adjustment become too tight, so you have to turn the big plastic nut on the cable at the gearbox to allow more thread to poke into the gearbox.
There should be a little free play at the pedal, you can feel when it starts to pull the clutch, use your hand to push the pedal if you've not done it before.
Unfortunately, Suzuki, like most Japanese makers have no idea about corrosion, as in Japan they don't salt the roads, and it is seized solid as you have found out. The threads are alloy BTW.
Crawl underneath, and you can remove the plastic box from the clutch housing to expose the hook on the clutch arm, and a square loop on the cable end.
This will unhook easily. The whole cable then pulls out of the gearbox, and will pull upwards under the bonnet, until it comes out and points forwards over the radiator.
Attack with wire brushes, emery cloth etc, and apply a little of your favourite lube to the threads, so the plastic nut will spin onto the corroded part of the thread.
Reattach, and adjust the nut to give about 1" of free play at the pedal.
If it slips and there is free play at the pedal, time for a new clutch.
There should be a little free play at the pedal, you can feel when it starts to pull the clutch, use your hand to push the pedal if you've not done it before.
Unfortunately, Suzuki, like most Japanese makers have no idea about corrosion, as in Japan they don't salt the roads, and it is seized solid as you have found out. The threads are alloy BTW.
Crawl underneath, and you can remove the plastic box from the clutch housing to expose the hook on the clutch arm, and a square loop on the cable end.
This will unhook easily. The whole cable then pulls out of the gearbox, and will pull upwards under the bonnet, until it comes out and points forwards over the radiator.
Attack with wire brushes, emery cloth etc, and apply a little of your favourite lube to the threads, so the plastic nut will spin onto the corroded part of the thread.
Reattach, and adjust the nut to give about 1" of free play at the pedal.
If it slips and there is free play at the pedal, time for a new clutch.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
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