Brake Pipes HELP!

My 2001 X reg Jimny has just failed it MOT on corroded Offside Brake pipe.

Its quite a long one that runs along the chassis from the front to the rear.

I'm going to attempt to repair this myself but need to know what pipe I should buy plus what unions I will need too.

So Does anyone know what pipe and unions I will need?

Thanks.

I've had some replaced for copper ones on mine and it was a job I left to the garage as I don't own a brake pipe flaring tool and I didn't know what size unions they are but suspect most cars are the same.

The garage didn't charge much and so given the price of the tool and the messing about along with how tidy they were compared to how tidy I would likely be, it seemed sensible to leave it to them.

My Mrs BMW has since needed the same but the route for them was even more convoluted, so I still wouldn't have done that and again it was cheap enough to let the garage do it.

How much does your garage want to do the job? Is it worth getting your hands dirty if they are cheap?

Kirkynut

Local garage quoted me £110 to do this as it was an advisory on last MOT.

But they're going to fit my braided hoses at the same time, so it may be cheaper just for pipes.

i would not advise any sunday wanna be machanic to do a job like this it is a fairly simple job but also thong can go wrong and brakes are the last thing you want to go

Found the pipe and unions that I need, plus I have now got a Flaring tool so I going to repair it myself, You have to learn somewhere anyway I'm sure that the garage will check that it all ok before its passed plus if it failed I would still have brakes because all cars have a split braking system of ether, front/rear split brake system or a diagonal split brake system.

The pipe is only corroded in one spot, probably due to vibration, so I may just cut out the rot and piece it using joiners. Anyone done this before?

if its steel pipe good luck on getting a good flair on the ends i would clean the pipe up first just to see how bad it is it may just be surface rust

The guy at the garage put the car up on the ramps so that I could see what was what and the pipe does seem quite corroded to the point that the pipe has a lot of rust build up so I don't think the MOT tester would be happy with that.

As for flaring the steel pipe I may need to clamp some steel bar to the flaring tool and use a bit pipe on the part you screw to form the flare. I may as well try this approach first, if it works I save a lot of time and hassle and if not I'll just have to change the whole pipe from front to rear, eeeek!

Brake pipe replaced, but cant get bleed nipple off left rear hub.

Gutted took me ages to replace the whole pipe from front to rear only for the bleed nipple to let me down!

Give it a good wire brushing, and a soak in Plus-gas, GT 85 or diesel (not WD40 it is not a release oil)
Try again, do nor shear off!

Take the drum off , remove brake shoes, take the pistons out and get the blowlamp to the alloy casting round the nipple. It will expand and the nipple should unscrew and come out.

Or just buy a new cylinder....

Have Finally bled my brakes, pedal feels firmer than it was before so just gotta get it to the MOT testing station for its re-test.

Thanks guys

My Jimny has passed it MOT re-test so I'm well happy, another 12 month of motoring, Whoop Whoop.

Any one thinking of having a go at replacing brake lines, I'd say go for it, Easy!

Well done fella, perhaps I ought to invest in a flaring tool for the next time them!!!

Kirkynut