Leaking coolant and engine removal?!

Hi all,

I used to be a member here but account seems to be lost, hence looks like my first post.

I hope someone will be able to help before I consign my Jimny to the bin.

I have an 2002 O2 model with 36K on the clock. 6 months ago she started leaking water. Other than overheating when I first found the problem, filling the radiator up after every other tank, kept her sweet. I was determined to sort the problem though. After checking and tidying up some hoses, I found the source seemed to be coming from behind the water pump and below the intake manifold.

I gave up for a while. Few weekends ago I tried again, realising the intake manifold would have to come off in order to get closer. What a total pain!

The manifold insn't totally removed but moved away enough to see I now need to dismantle even more stuff.

I'm now at the stage of removing the water pump. I have a load of manuals online but none seem to help much.

I hope someone will take the time to advise, I'd be very grateful.

- how do I get the crankshaft pully retaining bolt out?

- the metal cylinder behind the water pump (that inserts into the block and has three hoses coming off it) seems to be the source of my leak. If I can get to it, what are the chances of there being something I can do to seal it?

I've included a few photos if it helps.


Thanks BigJimny

Aidan

I seem to be having problems with the pics, I'll try again later.

[attachment:1]leak 1.jpg[/attachment]

either upload your pics to photobucket or similar and copy/paste the image link
or reduce the size of the image to about 2000 x 1600 as a jpeg

hi,
i delete the other topic

What engine is it? I recently did the cambelt and water pump on my SOHC and to get the cranks shaft pulley off you undo the small 8mm bolts surounding the large bolt on the pulley and then it just prises off.

There is a steel tube about 100mm long under the intake manifold for water pipe. Everything else is aluminium but the pipe isn't. It is prone to rusting out and is the usual source of leaks in that area in the G13BB engines. I would check with a mirror before doing anything else.

Thanks guys. This sounds about right. I'll try the photos again

i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii540/bwms1/pully1.jpg

i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii540/bwms1/leak1.jpg

If you just need to take the front pulley off leave the big bolt alone the 5 x 8mm bolts are all the hold the crank pulley on the bolt in the centre holds the cam belt bottom pulley on and you won't need to take that off.

The metal pipe mentioned is sealed with a big o ring, but as said the pipe is usually at fault.

Taking the fan and alternaor off should give you good visual on the pipe if I remember.

I may have a second hand pipe somewhere. I'll have a look.

I had an annoying leak in a similar area (but not as bad as yours sounds)
I replaced that rubber pipe in your second picture. Absolute bugger to get at.
Leak seems to have stopped.

Its got jubilee clips on which suggests its been replaced before....

Hi All,

thank you very much for all your replies and suggestions.

Breakthough came in the form of the crankshaft pully. It didn't look as though there was a hole in the middle to let it come off over the centre bolt. Take the tension off the drive belt, pully re-centres itself and hurrah off it comes.

Water pump came out and the fins were all corroded and one was missing! Trip to suppliers in Gateshead, £31, done.

The metal pipe at rear of pump was dodgy at the point where it meets the o ring. I smoothed it off and refitted it with a new o ring and plenty of gasket sealant. Couldnt quite figure out how the o ring gets a seal though as the pipe butts up to it from one side but on the pump side there is nothing to squash the two together.

Cam belt changed whilst I was there. Ended up rotating cams and crank more than the 90 degrees recommended. They were both significantly out of sync. I suppose this happened as I was trying to loosen off the crank pully centre bolt. Anyway, I turned both, a little each time, one then the other. No horrendous valve versus piston trauma and she fired!

In the end I opted to use a rad-weld product as belt and braces. The radiator, internals and pipes were all clean as a whistle so I hope no to have any blockages as a result.

Did 7 or 8 miles this morning, and everything ran sweet.

Day out in the Dales today. I'll check RAC membership is up to date before I go

Thanks again everyone. The generosity of forum members to give free advice to total strangers is pretty amazing. If it was help I needed for my other car (German, mid-engined and expensive to maintain) I don't think I would get such great response from the porker lovers.

Cheers!