3 link + panhard

Hey guys,

I'm thinking about doing a 3link+panhard on the front end of my jimny. I'm just not happy not happy with the flex i'm getting from the radius arm's on the front( it's pretty good, but could be better). I'm pretty happy with the flex i'm getting from the rear so i will leave alone.

Now the reason for this thread is i am yet to see a 3link done on a front of a jimny. I'm sure it has been done, but can't find any info on one. Any one seen one done? :evil:

Doing the lower links is the ease bit, just run arm's from the factory chassis radius arm mounts to the mount's on the diff.

Now doing the upper link is the issue! I can't see where to put the upper link mount on the chassis with out it hitting the diff or sump

So what idea's do you guy's have?

FYI before you say jimny's are 3link from factory, this is what i call a 3link setup( expect the panhard is on the other side :lol: )

Have you thought about going for a 4 link set up like the Wrangler has? This would mean you could run a top arm parallel to the lower and mounted to the inside of the chassis. You could then incude a threaded portion in either all the arms, or at least 2 to help with articulation as they would then 'twist', and also allow you to change camber if required by lengthening or shortening the arm. Another nice advantage of 3 or 4 link is that the face of the diff flange remains in the same position relative to the flange on the transfer box.

Obarno wrote: Have you thought about going for a 4 link set up like the Wrangler has? This would mean you could run a top arm parallel to the lower and mounted to the inside of the chassis. You could then incude a threaded portion in either all the arms, or at least 2 to help with articulation as they would then 'twist', and also allow you to change camber if required by lengthening or shortening the arm. Another nice advantage of 3 or 4 link is that the face of the diff flange remains in the same position relative to the flange on the transfer box.

Yes i have thought about 4link, but i'm trying to do with this the principle of KISS in mind (keep it simple stupid). :laugh:

All arm's will be adjustable, so i can do what you say and play around with WB and castor a bit

Dose the upper link need to be longer than the lower's or the other way around?

I'm no real expert on suspension - only what I have learnt by experience! The Wrangler top arms are slightly shorter than the lower, although I would have thought ideally they would be the same, however I'm sure either Simon from X Eng, or Rob from ORA would be able to tell you what would be the best set up. What I have found with the Wrangler is that the bushes on the lower arms, and particularly the rear, seem to wear more quickly that the upper ones. Not sure why that would be! Possibly because more often they are in the mud, water and rubbish, so with the lateset set of bushes, it uses a push in bush from either side with a metal sleeve, I have drilled a hole and fitted a grease nipple so that I can grease the bush with some of Martin's very excellent sticky blue water proof grease! The arms I use are by Teraflex and they all have a threaded swivel as said earlier.

Saw a landrover buggy thing last week where they had the 3rd link only on one side above one of the outer link arms it was a championship winning car a few years ago and looks a very simple set up that gets around the sump problem defo thinking hard about tryig it just the price of the ruddy jonnie joints put me off

Jimny 3 link, not sure if he is a member here.

www.auszookers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=30877