A place for general chat about the Jimny. Please make sure you post in the correct section on the site, this way it keeps the site tidy AND ensures you get a more relevant answer.
Suppliers/Dealers or anyone selling with a commercial view in mind CANNOT post here unless responding to a specific request of a member in a "wanted" post.
Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message
Suppliers or Members who have contributed to the forum can be identifed by the
logo.
Suppliers/Dealers or anyone selling with a commercial view in mind CANNOT post here unless responding to a specific request of a member in a "wanted" post.
Suppliers include people "breaking for spares" on a regular basis, when purchasing spares members should ask a supplier what they contribute to the running of the forum particularly if contacted by a Private Message
Suppliers or Members who have contributed to the forum can be identifed by the
changing front oil crank seal
- shootinginger@yahoo.co.uk
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
06 Sep 2011 14:18 #21386
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Re: changing front oil crank seal
Had a look in the manual, should just pull out and a new one goes in on a single cam.
It is actually the oil pump seal. If it is leaking likely something is wrong, like a groove on the end of the crank.
You have to drop the cam belt off and remove the pulleys obviously.
The twin cam looks easier, just take the pulley off and change it.
The manual suggests taking the oil pump housing off but I can't see why it won't just pull out, it goes in from the front.
It is actually the oil pump seal. If it is leaking likely something is wrong, like a groove on the end of the crank.
You have to drop the cam belt off and remove the pulleys obviously.
The twin cam looks easier, just take the pulley off and change it.
The manual suggests taking the oil pump housing off but I can't see why it won't just pull out, it goes in from the front.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
- shootinginger@yahoo.co.uk
- Topic Author
- Visitor
-
Public
06 Sep 2011 20:01 #21422
by facade
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Replied by facade on topic Re: changing front oil crank seal
The oil pump is at the front of the crank,
On the single cam the alloy cover behind the timing sprocket is the oil pump, so the crank seal is the oil pump seal.
On a twin cam the leaking seal you have is in an alloy cover in front of the timing chain, so it is just a crankshaft seal.
I would have a go at changing it, the hard part is removing the seal with the cover in situ. You can punch a hole through the metal part with a very sharp chisel then use a normal extractor to flip it out. If it wont come out, and you've wrecked the seal, you have to carry on and remove the timing chain cover.
Actually, the hard part is getting the fanbelt off, the long bolt through the alternator mountings at the bottom is usually tight, and rounds off the internal hexagon in the head. If the alternator will move with tyre levers you are ok, otherwise the alternator has to come off complete with brackets, and that takes ages.
On the single cam the alloy cover behind the timing sprocket is the oil pump, so the crank seal is the oil pump seal.
On a twin cam the leaking seal you have is in an alloy cover in front of the timing chain, so it is just a crankshaft seal.
I would have a go at changing it, the hard part is removing the seal with the cover in situ. You can punch a hole through the metal part with a very sharp chisel then use a normal extractor to flip it out. If it wont come out, and you've wrecked the seal, you have to carry on and remove the timing chain cover.
Actually, the hard part is getting the fanbelt off, the long bolt through the alternator mountings at the bottom is usually tight, and rounds off the internal hexagon in the head. If the alternator will move with tyre levers you are ok, otherwise the alternator has to come off complete with brackets, and that takes ages.
If it suddenly breaks, go back to the last thing that you did before it broke and start looking there
Please Log in or Create an account to join the conversation.
Time to create page: 0.178 seconds