Window Tinting for Jimnys

on the rear window there is a thick black edge all the way around so aslong as you trim it and stay within this black edge it will look good from the outside. i just cut around the heater bit. i took the back window out of mine iv got the removable hard top type though which is very rare.

good look

Hi guys, I'm a window tinter, some things to consider..

Tint all windows on your vehicle, any area where light/heat can get in, it will. Unless you go very dark, you can see out quite well regardless. Use a lighter film if you're concerned about it being too dark. Most quality tints are still 99% U.V. resistant, so you won't get fading and cracking throughout your interior, improves resale and keeps the inside looking nice. Most tints also cut about 60% of heat out, slight variations in the shade of the film will make little difference on this figure. So don't go too light because you still want some heat through as most films have very similar stats regardless of shade.

Putting it on...
Wind the window down an inch or so exposing the top edge, Roll the tint (With the liner to the outside) onto the outside of the window. Wet the glass so it sits on there without moving. Squeegy the water out, this holds it firm so you can cut the shape. Use a sharp knife to cut the shape of the top edge. Hold the tint back away from the window so as to not crush it, leaving it mainly still touching the window, and gently wind up the window. You can now cut the sides. Cut it a little bigger than the edge of the window, as once on the inside you want it to sit inside the edge of the rubber eliminating gaps. Now if you're able to remove your door trims, you can leave the bottom edge pretty long as it will sit nicely inside. If you're not going to remove the door trims, then cut the bottom edge shorter, but still long enough to sit in under the top of the door trim on the inside.

You don't have to cut any of the sides all the way to the corner, as you risk creasing it while cutting it out. On all 4 sides, leave an inch or so away from the corners uncut, you can simply trim these on a table using a ruler to ensure a straight edge.

Clean your windows thoroughly, making sure you get the sides and bottom. Wind the window back down an inch, exposing the top edge. Wet the window (with a water/dishwashing soap mix in a spray bottle). Peel back the top edge of your tint liner slowly and gently peel it off. Wet the exposed sticky side of the film.

You can wet a wall with water and put the tint on the wall with the liner facing out. This way you can peel off the liner without your piece of tint moving around. (Similar to how we wet the window to stop the film moving while cutting it out)

Wet the tint completely with your soap solution. apply the front bottom edge first, then manipulate the film onto the window. If you've used plenty of soap, it will let you move it around to line up your top edge perfectly. Squeegy out the water as best you can, the more water you get out, the quicker it will dry. If you've used too much soap, and it's too slippery, just carefully continue to squeegy it out making sure it's still in place. Gently wind up your window and squeegy out the bottom. Make sure you check that the film hasn't moved before doing your final squeegy runs.

The back windows aren't 'winders' so it's as easy as wetting the outside of the glass, sitting the film onto the glass with the liner facing out, cut around the edge. Clean your window thoroughly, wet the glass on the inside, peel off the liner, wet the tint, apply it, get it straight and squeegy out the water.

The rear screen is harder than DIY suppliers would have you believe. Because window tint is flat, and rear screens are curved, you will find what we call 'spears' where a 'finger' shaped bubble appears on the edges. Unless you have a heat gun and are familiar with 'shrinking' the tint, then ignore these when cutting out, and when you apply the tint, you'll have to take extra care with the squeegy so as to not crease the film. As the film dries, you'll find the spears will start to sit down as you squeegy them. You must persist in this process, and even get a hair dryer on the outside to heat the glass a little, this helps the film stick down You must not let it wait too long though as dust will attract to these spears leaving marks under your tint.

Good luck if you give it a go, let me know if you want any further advice. Make your own mind up on shades of tint, which windows you want to tint, it is your car after all, you want it to be how you like. I'm just offering advice to those who want to try it yourselves. Tinting is a trade, and not necessarily an easy thing to do. Some people can do it first time, most others never get the hang of it.

Cheers.

Cammo.

Hi Cammo

excellent post with advice

Some people can do it first time, most others never get the hang of it

I'd be in the second the group

welcome to BJ - do you have a Jimny ?

Also be careful with tinting the front windows, I had mine fairly dark several years ago on a ford KA and the law decided to impound my car until the tint was removed. Fitting any tint other than standard is illegal. I still do however have a very light tint on the front of my runabout Grand Vitara with the rears very dark as the car is a greenhouse and is used to ferry the dog about.
I will also be tinting my Jimny when It returns with my roll cage fitted. This will be done by a professional tinter/signwriter mate at mates rates!

Also remember to not wind down your windows for a few days after the film has been applied as this may damage the finnish.

To remove the film I gently heat the film with a hot air gun to loosen the glue, and gently peel back, then remove any remaining glue with a razor blade and a little UPVC solvent cleaner.
Don't use a stanley blade as this will scratch the glass!

Thank you for the welcome Halford, I've been a big fan of Jimny's for quite a few years, even as far back as the old seirra. I don't own one myself I have a young growing family that unfortunately the Jimny will not facilitate, but I convinced my Mother to buy one last week. She loves it!

Guys, if anyone is thinking of tinting their car, I am tinting my Mum's next week hopefully, if you like I could post some pics or vids with more instructions.

Supergaz has offered good advice to also consider. If you have the luxury of electric windows, you can simply wind down both windows if nearing the law enforcers. This not only hides the shade of tint on your front windows, but also allows enough light inside the car to alleviate the 'dark looking' shade on the rest of the windows. I'm in Australia, where it's hot, so driving around with the windows down isn't a problem. I do however understand that you guys in the mother country may not want to wind your windows down, especially in winter.

Cheers guys, look forward to keeping you updated on my Mum's Jimny's adventures.

Cammo.

We can tint our rear windows as dark as we like there is no law on that. I have done a'lot of work helping out my window tinting mate and still I don't attempt it myself, however I am one to attempt pretty much anything.

When tinting windows which are not bonded in such the front doors we have always removed them from the vehicle as this allows better cleaning and finish and so that the film goes well below the window seal.
If tinting windows which are curved such as a tailgate (not jimny's) Then he also uses baby powder on the glass and then places the film on top of the outside glass to allow accurate trimming of the film. Then this can also be pre-shrunk with a heat gun to the shape of the glass.

Hope this is of some help