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Lift blocks
- Johnniehec
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19 Apr 2011 08:27 - 19 Apr 2011 08:28 #15227
by Johnniehec
On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.
Lift blocks was created by Johnniehec
Can someone tell me the diameter of the body lift blocks, aluminium or nylon, that that are supplied in the various body lift kits? I'm going to DIY, Aberdonian in me again!, along the lines of the Eco lift topic, but with blocks, recon I can get about 25-30mm with the standard bolts, buy a length of nylon from
www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/Nylon_6_Rod.html
cut it, drill it (may have to split and glue it rather than lift 5ins plus to clear the bolts) and cut the rubbers down if required. I just need to know what diameter rod to order, I think I saw mention of it in a thread some where but I can't find it.
I'm going to be fitting sill bars, I've got them cut and bracketed ready to fit but obviously want to do the body lift first so I don't have to move them.
Cheers,
John.
cut it, drill it (may have to split and glue it rather than lift 5ins plus to clear the bolts) and cut the rubbers down if required. I just need to know what diameter rod to order, I think I saw mention of it in a thread some where but I can't find it.
I'm going to be fitting sill bars, I've got them cut and bracketed ready to fit but obviously want to do the body lift first so I don't have to move them.
Cheers,
John.
On the 8th Day God made the LandRover -
On the 9th day he swapped it for a Jimny.
Last edit: 19 Apr 2011 08:28 by Johnniehec.
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19 Apr 2011 10:59 #15234
by X8GGY
Replied by X8GGY on topic Re: Lift blocks
Mine are 50mm
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- srcars
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19 Apr 2011 17:18 #15250
by srcars
Replied by srcars on topic Re: Lift blocks
Yep 50mm, but in my opinion you would be much better off buying a propper kit with the sleeved bolts. I belive there is a cheap £30 ish kit on e-bay which comes with lift blocks and long bolts which may work out like a good deal for if you decide to go that way.
The sleeved bolts which come in the more expensive kits are worth their weight in gold though and apart from the steering and transfer box make the kit a bolt on job that can be done in a few hours single handed. The problem with a DIY job is that you have to remove the original captive body mounting bolts to fit your extended nut and bolt set up. Maybe somebody will confirm but I seem to think that some of them maybe in double skinned panels meaning you will have to cut through the upper skin to gain access to drop the bolts through.
Which ever way you go I think Its a great mod and I am very happy with the end result.
Rich
The sleeved bolts which come in the more expensive kits are worth their weight in gold though and apart from the steering and transfer box make the kit a bolt on job that can be done in a few hours single handed. The problem with a DIY job is that you have to remove the original captive body mounting bolts to fit your extended nut and bolt set up. Maybe somebody will confirm but I seem to think that some of them maybe in double skinned panels meaning you will have to cut through the upper skin to gain access to drop the bolts through.
Which ever way you go I think Its a great mod and I am very happy with the end result.
Rich
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- bertbuckie
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19 Apr 2011 17:31 #15252
by bertbuckie
Replied by bertbuckie on topic Re: Lift blocks
I think Adam bought one of the cheap ebay kits and said pay out the extra...... not worth the hastle!
John, your as tight as me haha
John, your as tight as me haha
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19 Apr 2011 18:00 #15254
by mlines
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
Replied by mlines on topic Re: Lift blocks
With the cheap kits they get you to drill through the captive bits and bolt through :0
Martin
2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
Customised winch bumper and roll cage
235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
Corrected arms all-round, rear disks, Recaro seats and harnesses
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- vitara_mad
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19 Apr 2011 18:46 #15255
by vitara_mad
Replied by vitara_mad on topic Re: Lift blocks
if you going to do it do it right & get a decent kit & avoid the cheap so called body lift kits on ebay there not even worth the postage cost
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19 Apr 2011 19:02 - 20 Apr 2011 19:16 #15256
by X8GGY
Replied by X8GGY on topic Re: Lift blocks
Removed by poster...
Last edit: 20 Apr 2011 19:16 by X8GGY.
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- bluejimny
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20 Apr 2011 15:16 #15278
by bluejimny
Replied by bluejimny on topic Re: Lift blocks
same here hope it ok to mention? (if not please remove Martin)
yes my blocks are also 50mm, im not knocking the other kit on ebay, but i no of 2 people that have fitted them, but its alot!! of hard work, and very time consuming, eg pulling up the carpet etc etc
also i wouldnt really go over 50mm in height, as you will run out of travel with the steering shaft, i am developing a spacer, and looks like dave is as wel lol, that i would use with a 3" kit just ive decided to have a break over easter as ive been working flat out!
heres an example i was playing about with, not quite finished yet though
yes my blocks are also 50mm, im not knocking the other kit on ebay, but i no of 2 people that have fitted them, but its alot!! of hard work, and very time consuming, eg pulling up the carpet etc etc
also i wouldnt really go over 50mm in height, as you will run out of travel with the steering shaft, i am developing a spacer, and looks like dave is as wel lol, that i would use with a 3" kit just ive decided to have a break over easter as ive been working flat out!
heres an example i was playing about with, not quite finished yet though
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- NickG
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20 Apr 2011 17:33 #15283
by NickG
Replied by NickG on topic Re: Lift blocks
The ORA kit is spot on all works well
the engineering in it has been well thought out
well worth the money.
I thought about making my own but could not be botherd with
the hassle.
The kit from ZANFI i notice has a slot in the spscers so you dont have to lift the
body twice as far (4" if you fit a 2" kit) which can be a bit of a pain
the engineering in it has been well thought out
well worth the money.
I thought about making my own but could not be botherd with
the hassle.
The kit from ZANFI i notice has a slot in the spscers so you dont have to lift the
body twice as far (4" if you fit a 2" kit) which can be a bit of a pain
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20 Apr 2011 19:21 #15288
by X8GGY
Replied by X8GGY on topic Re: Lift blocks
Removed my post...
Not fair to post on a "competitor's" website, particulary with another competitor on here too... :whistle:
Sorry Martin
Not fair to post on a "competitor's" website, particulary with another competitor on here too... :whistle:
Sorry Martin
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- adamjimny
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21 Apr 2011 06:59 #15295
by adamjimny
Replied by adamjimny on topic Re: Lift blocks
i have fitted one of the cheap rubbish kits to mine and just managed without sleeved bolts but pain in the behind just doesn't comprehend it. if i were to do it again id go a proper kit any day.
if your set on making them then you can just squeeze 50mm in but get some mates to sit in the car when blocks are on as it squishes the rubber a bit and helps get the nuts on.............good luck
if your set on making them then you can just squeeze 50mm in but get some mates to sit in the car when blocks are on as it squishes the rubber a bit and helps get the nuts on.............good luck
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- scrappybill
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22 Apr 2011 12:24 #15343
by scrappybill
Replied by scrappybill on topic Re: Lift blocks
I've just fitted a diy kit, but made shoulder bolts with hex bar turned down to a 16mm for the 12mm threaded bolts/studs from body 2mm wall allround, and 14mm for the 10mm threaded studs from body.
But the pitch is not normal- they are both 1.25mm pitch, so you can you standard course thread Metric taps.
The shoulder bolts have an internal thread rather than an external, so technically they are threaded inserts with a hex head,
I will give a good write up once it all finished- and take loads of photos.
I actually removed all the rubbers in-between the body and the chassis and put my own custom made rubber spacers in there but also put back the rubber cups and cup washers under them- which are attached to the original studs.
The 2 under the headlights are 10mm 1.25mm pitch, but you can use standard m10 bolts that are longer- drill out the bottom welded nut, or re tap etc- and put a couple of locking nuts under it.
I had to under the petrol pipe- and both sides of the steering shaft- and the brake pipe splitter on the front drivers side to all me to lift body high enough to get the big custom bushes in, but then re attached all after.
I also managed to refit the back bumper by making relocating brackets for the bottom 2 fixing points, but keeping them in place to save any welding new ones on.
the front bumper also sits on perfect, with a little bit of manipulation.
If got a set of 30" tyres on now with no probs.
(I didn't want to alter any of the arches etc, did not want to cut any away)
When its all back together ill give a good write up, and post pics up.
But the pitch is not normal- they are both 1.25mm pitch, so you can you standard course thread Metric taps.
The shoulder bolts have an internal thread rather than an external, so technically they are threaded inserts with a hex head,
I will give a good write up once it all finished- and take loads of photos.
I actually removed all the rubbers in-between the body and the chassis and put my own custom made rubber spacers in there but also put back the rubber cups and cup washers under them- which are attached to the original studs.
The 2 under the headlights are 10mm 1.25mm pitch, but you can use standard m10 bolts that are longer- drill out the bottom welded nut, or re tap etc- and put a couple of locking nuts under it.
I had to under the petrol pipe- and both sides of the steering shaft- and the brake pipe splitter on the front drivers side to all me to lift body high enough to get the big custom bushes in, but then re attached all after.
I also managed to refit the back bumper by making relocating brackets for the bottom 2 fixing points, but keeping them in place to save any welding new ones on.
the front bumper also sits on perfect, with a little bit of manipulation.
If got a set of 30" tyres on now with no probs.
(I didn't want to alter any of the arches etc, did not want to cut any away)
When its all back together ill give a good write up, and post pics up.
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