Can you re-start it? Immediately?
Does it happen every time the engine is warming up?
What sort of temperature is it happening at?
Once you've re started it, does it continue to cut out?
Does it still cut out when it gets up to running temperature?
I'm bored of asking questions - but you get the idea of the sort of info required to make a diagnosis.
Yes it cuts out after approx 3 - 4 miles when the vehicle is at running temp, Wont start again until the engine has cooled down. It happens every time you drive the vehicle. We suspect cam and crank sensors faultey but not100% cheers.
On yours it's a cam sensor located at the bulkhead end of the rocker cover. Easy to get at and a replacement is only £25.
They do go faulty, but it should light up the engine warning light.
Other things worth investigating are: (if only to rule them out)
Spark. Make sure the plugs are sparking
Fuel. Sometimes you get fuel vaporising in the feed pipe and / or dirty fuel filter. When the engine is cold, the cold start enrichment might provide enough fuel to run it even with reduced fuel rail pressure. When the ECU thinks it's up to temperature it's switched off and the engine goes lean?
Other sensor faults. Tend to cause hard to diagnose problems. Try pulling apart every connector you can find, spray with contact cleaner, fill with petroleum jelly and re-connect. This fixes a remarkable number of problems.
Behind the glove box you'll find a six pin connector. The diagnostic computer plugs in to this. However, by shorting two of the pins (2 & 4 IIRC) it will flash the engine warning light to indicate what fault codes it sees. Disconnect battery for a minute to reset the codes once you've fixed the problem.
There is lots of info on line about the connector and codes.
Sounds to me more like the crank sensor. Best way to test is to start the car and get it to running temp until it cuts out. After it cuts out pour water over the cam sensor (to assist it cooling down) and try starting it again. If it starts then you have your problem. If not try the same on the crank sensor. Free and easy way to test.
Also like Si mentioned, the six pin connector is helpful to find faults. Download the workshop manual if you need help finding the plug and the right pins
I think the cam and crank sensors are about £60 each from the stealership. I couldn't get hold of them from my usual (reasonably priced) source of parts.
I'm not sure what model the W reg is, as they aren't referred as that here is Aus, but if its the M13A motor it will have both sensors, VVT or not, but the G13B only has the camshaft sensor I believe
W reg is 1998 / 99. All Jimnys before 2001 (I think) only had a cam sensor and Spanish built soft tops up to 2003.
I think there is some confusion as, without VVT, the cam and crank phase is locked, though it turns half as fast as the crank - so a Cam and Crank sensor are effectively the same thing and are referred to interchangeably.
With Variable Valve Timing, the phase of the cam shaft varies with respect to the crank - so you need two separate sensors.
The cam sensor itself is quite common on other cars. The one I bought only cost £25. It looks slightly different but works fine!
I bought it here (Clicky link)
Sandez wrote: I'm not sure what model the W reg is, as they aren't referred as that here is Aus, but if its the M13A motor it will have both sensors, VVT or not, but the G13B only has the camshaft sensor I believe
Mine is the M13A non VVT and has both a crankshaft and a camshaft sensor.
We use cookies to give you the best online experience. Please let us know if you agree to all of these cookies. Accepting the Cookies also accepts the Disclaimers for the website.
