Hubs

Hi, yesterday I took my vaccum hubs of my 2006 jimny. I didn’t actually manage to get one of them off as it was stuck. But when I got the offside hub off to expose the driveshaft coming from the diff it would spin freely but wouldn’t turn the prop shaft over, however the near side hub did.
I've done all the basic tests and have come to the conclusion that it is not the transfer box as the front prop locks when you transfer from 2WD to 4WD so there is no problems there I believe. Any suggestions as I have a bad feeling it could be the diff as normally the bare driveshaft that the hub connects to on the wheel should lock whilst in 4WD whereas mine spins freely with slight resistance. Anybody had this problem before. 

When you turn one driveshaft the other side will be turning backwards. This is normal.

Hi,

It sounds like the diff to me. In 4WD the front prop shaft should be locked, which yours in, then there should be a lot of resistance to both front wheels.

I don't know if the Jimny suffers from drive shaft problems, if the drive shaft was split or splines at the end were damaged, you would get the same thing. If you removed the drive shaft which spins freely you could tell if it was damaged.

Someone else will know if there are other problems or tests you can do.

Robin

I can't quite picture what your are describing. Go through the steps that Facade described in your last post on this issue.
But in short if turning a wheel makes anything else (propshaft or opposite wheel) turn then 4wd is working. With an open differential like you have you can't really have a situation when one wheel does something and the other doesn't.

Put it back together. Open the driver's window and turn the radio off (and the heater fan if it is on max).

Start it up and put it in 4WD.

You should hear "click-click" as the hubs lock, and the green light comes on. but maybe they were locked already from messing.

Push back into 2WD, the light goes out and you hear "clack-clack" as the hubs disengage.

Now try 4WD again, this time they should go "click-click" and the light come on.

If they don't go click-click report back. (yes, the sounds are different!)


If they do go click-click, leave it in 4wd jump out and jack up one front wheel and see if you can rotate it.
If you can't- relax, it is working.

If you can rotate it, we are back to a broken CV, or the diff, or a broken half shaft or the hubs aren't locked. (Maybe they went clack-clack not click-click as the pipes are completely backwards, or even click-clack/clack-click if one side is backwards.


Whichever, if you carefully remove the hubs, you can see if they were locked.
If one or both weren't locked, it is a piping issue.

If both are locked then it is time to get the spanners out.

Pull the short driveshaft first and check the CV, (and the shaft!)

Just remove & hang up the brake calliper, drop the steering joints off the arm, (remove the abs sensor if there is one) remove the dust seal from the swivel housing and remove the kingpins. Then the whole lot pulls off and brings the driveshaft with it. The lower kingpin bearing will be a ball of rust, but catch it  in an old celebrations tub before it lands in the dirt as the swivel comes away. Now you have to fit new kingpin bearings too....

Then pull the long driveshaft and check it

Then pull the diff.



Usually, when a CV goes it affects the steering as the pieces jam as the hub moves lock to lock.
The short driveshaft breaks first as the longer one can twizzle up a bit more and absorb more shock.