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Under sealing
- Cremator1
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Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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- stiffsteve204me
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Cremator1 wrote: Well I pretreat the rust so drying now what do you all recommend for which underseal to use I was going to use dinitrol.many thanks dawn
This is a topic that has been raised before.
Have a search, and you will find a few choices.
Personally, I am going to use Bilt Hamber, Dynax UC, and Dynax S-50.
Steve.
“He that strikes the venison first shall be the lord o' the feast.” — Shakespeare, King Lear.
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So avoid things that get hot or rotate.
Axles, shocks, training arms and every panel underneath you can see etc are all ok to do.
Also if you can get some in the box sections of the chassis and body mounts. The drain holes make perfect access points, but just make sure when you have finished they are not blocked with wax.
Don't forget the front body mounts and just under the headlamps.
It's a messy job, so park over ground you don't care about or use a sheet to cover the floor.
Also have a good laugh at yourself when you have finished, you will look like the underside of the Jimny.
PS yours is not bad in the photos, wax should protect it nicely.
GEN4 owners have a look at the pictures of the surface rust on the welds etc, these are the locations you will see rust first, some visable on GEN3s I have seen at just over 12 months old. Hope the GEN4 is better, but the pictures are a good example of what to look for.
Yokohama Geolanders, Sony head unit, NAUTILUS Air Horn, DRL conversion, Rear cargo space, Elvis Bobblehead, transfer Guard, Indian hanging Elephant, Koni Heavy track dampers, Custom SS exhaust, Voodoo Doll, Adventure Rack with LED ight bar, vintage ERIBA caravan usually attached (yes it's slow)
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- Cremator1
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Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
ADOS Attention Deficit Ooooh Shiny!
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Only afterwards it makes sense to apply any protective coating.
Apart from that, all "endangered" welds should also be coated with a polyurethane sealant (through a caulking gun) before any additional layers are applied. As you can see from the pictures, the welds are the most vulnerable points which start to rust first.
Applying any coating over "live" rust carries a high risk of being counterproductive in the long term.
In theory, insulating the rust from oxygen will "pause" it. However, as soon as the insulation diminishes in any way (delaminating, cracking, etc.), rust will get a super boost unseen underneath.
I wrote more about all this in the corresponding wiki article
I do not claim to be a definitive authority on this highly controversial topic in general - I am only trying to assemble the best practices from a myriad of false ones worldwide.
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