Difference between revisions of "Front speaker upgrade (Jimny 4)"
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{{intro-notes}} | {{intro-notes}} | ||
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== Introduction == | == Introduction == | ||
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{{Gen4|}} | {{Gen4|}} | ||
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| − | This guide | + | This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only |
| + | The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment). | ||
== Tools needed == | == Tools needed == | ||
| − | + | * Large flat head screwdriver; | |
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* Small flat head screwdriver; | * Small flat head screwdriver; | ||
| − | * | + | * 10 mm socket & driver/ratchet; |
| − | + | * #2 Philips screwdriver; | |
| − | + | * Electrical tape; | |
| − | + | * Suitable tool to pry plastic trim; | |
| − | + | * Wire cutter; | |
| − | + | * Wire insulation stripper; | |
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| − | + | * For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide) | |
| − | + | ** Soldering iron; | |
| − | * | + | ** Solder; |
| − | + | ** Heat shrink; | |
| + | * For those who prefer detachable wire connections: | ||
| + | ** Suitable cable connectors; | ||
| + | ** Wire crimper; | ||
| − | + | == Extra parts needed == | |
| − | * | + | *2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire |
| − | * | + | *1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type) |
| − | + | *1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4) | |
| + | == Supplied cables == | ||
| + | The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables | ||
| − | * | + | '''Power:''' |
| − | * | + | *Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell |
| − | * | + | *Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected |
| + | *Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell | ||
| + | The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead. | ||
| − | + | '''Speaker input:''' | |
| + | *White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers + | ||
| + | *White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers - | ||
| + | Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring. | ||
| + | If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will be needed to run to the other rear speaker. | ||
| − | + | '''Remote:''' | |
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| + | The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly | ||
| − | + | == Trim removal == | |
| + | This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in these guides: | ||
| + | [[Front speaker upgrade (Jimny 4)]] | ||
| + | [[Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)]] | ||
| − | + | *Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull) | |
| − | + | *Remove the glovebox | |
| − | + | *Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker | |
Revision as of 21:57, 19 November 2019
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Introduction
This guide is for the 4th Generation Jimny only
The model I've used is the Pioneer TS-WX130DA (The DA version comes with the remote control adjustment).
Tools needed
- Large flat head screwdriver;
- Small flat head screwdriver;
- 10 mm socket & driver/ratchet;
- #2 Philips screwdriver;
- Electrical tape;
- Suitable tool to pry plastic trim;
- Wire cutter;
- Wire insulation stripper;
- For those who prefer fixed soldered wire connections: (This is the method used in the guide)
- Soldering iron;
- Solder;
- Heat shrink;
- For those who prefer detachable wire connections:
- Suitable cable connectors;
- Wire crimper;
Extra parts needed
- 2m of 2 core speaker cable/RCA wire
- 1x 'Add a Circuit' (10A mini blade fuse type)
- 1x 1.5mm Ring terminal crimp (M4)
Supplied cables
The sub is supplied with 3 main set of cables
Power:
- Yellow (Permanent live): Connect to fuse box in passenger footwell
- Blue (Trigger to power amp on): Not used as this model can automatically turn on when sound is detected
- Black (Ground): Connect to chassis in footwell
The fuse holder can be cut off the yellow wire as the fuse in the ‘add a circuit’ will be used instead.
Speaker input:
- White solid (Positive): Connect to one of the speakers +
- White striped (Negative): Connect to one of the speakers -
Despite the sub having a left and right RCA input only one mono input is needed. This can be taken from any of the speakers or joined into the speaker wires behind the head unit. I’ve chosen the rear speaker on the drivers side as this is the shortest run and more importantly when fitting the rear speaker an adaptor cable is provided to connect the car wiring to the speaker, this means I can cut into the adaptor cable instead of altering any of the main car wiring. If you want a full stereo input then a additional speaker cable will be needed to run to the other rear speaker.
Remote:
The remote needs to be connected for this subwoofer to work correctly
Trim removal
This guide assumes you already know how to remove the trim panels - if unsure please refer to the instructions given in these guides: Front speaker upgrade (Jimny 4) Rear speaker installation (Jimny 4)
- Remove the trim around the door sill on both sides of the car (only one screw to remove and then pull)
- Remove the glovebox
- Remove the main plastic side panel covering the rear speaker
