Difference between revisions of "Tie rod end replacement"
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m (Bosanek moved page Tie Rod End Replacement to Tie rod end replacement without leaving a redirect: Capital letter correction) |
m (Added the article into gen2 and gen4 categories) |
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− | Yet another source of poor steering on a Jimny is a worn | + | Yet another source of poor steering on a Jimny is a worn tie rod / track rod end. |
These are a simple job to change, although you should then get the alignment checked/set afterwards. | These are a simple job to change, although you should then get the alignment checked/set afterwards. | ||
Line 12: | Line 12: | ||
== Diagnostics == | == Diagnostics == | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[File:Tie rod end replacement guide - figure 01.jpg|thumb|left|640px|Figure 01 - checking a tie rod end]] | ||
* First, find out which one is worn. | * First, find out which one is worn. | ||
* Jack up the vehicle on the side you want to check and make sure the vehicle is secured. | * Jack up the vehicle on the side you want to check and make sure the vehicle is secured. | ||
− | * Place your hand carefully and lightly over the joint and with a firm grip on the steering rod | + | * Place your hand carefully and lightly over the joint and with a firm grip on the steering rod. |
− | * If you can feel a shift or mechanical click/movement in the joint then it is worn. | + | * Try and shake the steering rod around in all directions. |
+ | * If you can feel a shift or mechanical click/movement in the joint, then it is worn. | ||
+ | <br clear=all> | ||
− | + | == Removal == | |
− | |||
− | == | + | === Step 1 === |
− | |||
− | + | [[File:Tie rod end replacement guide - figure 02.jpg|thumb|left|384px|Figure 02 - splitting the joint]] | |
− | + | * Once you have confirmed that there is a problem, the task of stripping is actually quite easy. | |
+ | * First remove the wheel, it gives you more room. | ||
+ | * Now use a splitter to break the joint open. | ||
+ | * Here I am using a puller. | ||
+ | * I have undone the tie rod end nut but NOT removed it fully. | ||
+ | * I have put the end of the puller inside the “dish” created by the loose nut on the end of the joint. | ||
+ | * I then put the puller feet into the gap between the rubber and the control arm that the joint attaches to. | ||
+ | <br clear=all> | ||
− | + | === Step 2 === | |
− | |||
− | + | [[File:Tie rod end replacement guide - figure 03.jpg|thumb|left|640px|Figure 03 - removing a tie rod end]] | |
+ | * The joint should then split with a bang. | ||
+ | * Now you have to remove the joint. | ||
+ | * The trick here is to unscrew the joint without disturbing the locking nut position. | ||
+ | * The locking nut position is what sets the alignment of the steering. | ||
+ | * It is best to try and not disturb it too much so that the alignment is not too far out. | ||
+ | * The joints can rust in and can be very difficult to undo. | ||
+ | * However, I was lucky and it was possible to wind the joint off the rod without touching the locking nut. | ||
+ | * Note that in the picture the locking nut appears to be part of the tracking rod itself as it is corroded on. | ||
+ | * The nut is in fact separate and may need undoing half a turn to allow the joint to be unwound. | ||
+ | <br clear=all> | ||
− | |||
− | |||
+ | === Step 3 === | ||
− | |||
+ | [[File:Tie rod end replacement guide - figure 04.jpg|thumb|left|640px|Figure 04 - marking the nut]] | ||
− | + | * With the tie rod removed, put a mark on the locking nut and then remove the nut, counting the whole turns it takes to come off. | |
− | + | <br clear=all> | |
Line 53: | Line 70: | ||
− | + | === Step 1 === | |
− | [[ | + | [[File:Tie rod end replacement guide - figure 05.jpg|thumb|left|640px|Figure 05 - nut wound onto new joint]] |
− | Figure | ||
+ | * Now count the same number of turns as you wind the nut onto the new joint. | ||
+ | <br clear=all> | ||
− | |||
+ | === Step 2 === | ||
− | [[ | + | [[File:Tie rod end replacement guide - figure 06.jpg|thumb|left|640px|Figure 06 - tightening the joint]] |
− | |||
+ | * Wind the whole joint onto the rod and re-assemble. | ||
+ | * You will probably find that when tightening the top nut on the joint, the whole assembly simply turns. | ||
+ | * You need to put some pressure on the joint to stop it rotating whilst you are tightening it. | ||
+ | * Here I have placed a jack underneath the joint and jacked up the joint slightly. | ||
+ | <br clear=all> | ||
− | + | ||
+ | === Step 3 === | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | Now tighten up the locking nut, replace the wheel and you are finished. | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | == Aftermath == | ||
+ | |||
+ | |||
+ | You should get the alignment checked and adjusted in a professional work station as soon as you can. | ||
{{Edited}} | {{Edited}} | ||
− | [[Category:Steering]] | + | |
− | [[Category:Howto]] | + | [[Category:Steering - gen2]] |
+ | [[Category:Howto - gen2]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Category:Steering - gen3]] | ||
+ | [[Category:Howto - gen3]] | ||
+ | |||
+ | [[Category:Steering - gen4]] | ||
+ | [[Category:Howto - gen4]] |
Latest revision as of 13:32, 17 January 2021
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Contents
Introduction
Yet another source of poor steering on a Jimny is a worn tie rod / track rod end.
These are a simple job to change, although you should then get the alignment checked/set afterwards.
Diagnostics
- First, find out which one is worn.
- Jack up the vehicle on the side you want to check and make sure the vehicle is secured.
- Place your hand carefully and lightly over the joint and with a firm grip on the steering rod.
- Try and shake the steering rod around in all directions.
- If you can feel a shift or mechanical click/movement in the joint, then it is worn.
Removal
Step 1
- Once you have confirmed that there is a problem, the task of stripping is actually quite easy.
- First remove the wheel, it gives you more room.
- Now use a splitter to break the joint open.
- Here I am using a puller.
- I have undone the tie rod end nut but NOT removed it fully.
- I have put the end of the puller inside the “dish” created by the loose nut on the end of the joint.
- I then put the puller feet into the gap between the rubber and the control arm that the joint attaches to.
Step 2
- The joint should then split with a bang.
- Now you have to remove the joint.
- The trick here is to unscrew the joint without disturbing the locking nut position.
- The locking nut position is what sets the alignment of the steering.
- It is best to try and not disturb it too much so that the alignment is not too far out.
- The joints can rust in and can be very difficult to undo.
- However, I was lucky and it was possible to wind the joint off the rod without touching the locking nut.
- Note that in the picture the locking nut appears to be part of the tracking rod itself as it is corroded on.
- The nut is in fact separate and may need undoing half a turn to allow the joint to be unwound.
Step 3
- With the tie rod removed, put a mark on the locking nut and then remove the nut, counting the whole turns it takes to come off.
Installation
Step 1
- Now count the same number of turns as you wind the nut onto the new joint.
Step 2
- Wind the whole joint onto the rod and re-assemble.
- You will probably find that when tightening the top nut on the joint, the whole assembly simply turns.
- You need to put some pressure on the joint to stop it rotating whilst you are tightening it.
- Here I have placed a jack underneath the joint and jacked up the joint slightly.
Step 3
Now tighten up the locking nut, replace the wheel and you are finished.
Aftermath
You should get the alignment checked and adjusted in a professional work station as soon as you can.
Page last edited on 17/01/2021 by user Bosanek