TPO's Jimny

Hello folks

Picked this up yesterday, thought I'd share from the outset - perhaps someone here recognises it from a previous life?

I'm told the prior prior owner did all the modifications, I'm yet to figure out precisely what is stock and what isn't.

Apparently it needs some welding (non structural, hole below rear seats). First drive of 50ish miles was interesting, seems to like 50mph but not much beyond and chunky wheels mean the speedo reading is notably below actual road speed.

Plan is to get it to a mechanic ASAP for a general service and new MOT (zero history paperwork).

Anything specific you'd advise I get checked out?

Also looking for suggestions on improving braking power, it stops OK but I'm used to more assertive deceleration!

Thanks in advance,
TPO

Looks tidy but they all do till you start looking at what can't be seen 
Problems/welding I would say remove.......... front inner arch liners check for rot on front panel, rear bumper, rear outer arches and both side panels in the boot 
fingers crossed it's a good one 
Big tyres and heavy wheels effecting brakes 

I'll add those rust hotspots to the checklist, thanks

I appreciate that braking if definitely being affected by the additional unsprung mass of the larger and heavier wheels and tyres. Looking underneath, are the rears on drum brakes? If so, is there an option to convert to discs all round?

Any recommendations for reliable parts dealers in the UK welcome.

Also need to get another key cut. Is this a dealer only job?

Generally speaking, there is very little advantage to switching from drum to disc at the rear, especially on a vehicle as small/light as a Jimny, the rear brakes essentially just keep the car in a straight line.

Where rear disc can be an advantage is if you're frequently axle deep in soupy mud, mud gets trapped in the drum and makes a very effective grinding paste, you end up having to strip the drums frequently for cleaning, whereas, with discs, you can just hose them down.

Rear disc conversion available at jimnybits 
Doesn't make much difference in braking performance 
Bigjimny shop do a front conversion to vented discs some say this makes a difference 

Both of the available kits for front or rear are really more about heat management than actual braking improvement. The vented fronts are still the same diameter and the diameter is the main thing for improving the efficiency of the brakes. However. It is possible to improve the bite of the standard brake by fitting gucci pads and discs, mine are black diamond though I also have previously used ebc green stuff and their discs. I've found that the black diamond are really good for me having an automatic as I use the brakes more than a manual but I also do a lot of towing too so I really do torture test them frequently. It's also worth considering what you are doing with your jimny because if you are frequently in deep mud then you will be grinding the pads and discs with gritty muck so will be changing them far too often which makes my ones at nearly 200 quid far too expensive.

I changed my 2011 to EBC Green stuff discs and pads, the difference was staggering, but then decided to sell the car about 6 weeks later, so someone benefited. My guess would be the discs I took off were original fitment, the pads had probably been replaced as there was plenty of material left.

My other car has Brembo disc brakes all round, but when it needs new discs and pads it will be EBC Green Stuff if they make them in that size.

Robin

Thanks for the replies, all info is useful.

Main use for the vehicle is likely to be (a) the equivalent of a Polaris but more sturdy and (b) getting to a shop if there's local flooding or snow.

Perhaps for towing a mowing deck, but they're not heavy loads and expensive for a 2 stroke with three blades.

Quick look underneath and the rear brake drums look quite corroded, so will need replacing either with new drums or discs.

Green Stuff I've heard of, so might be a fair front option especially with the limited exposure to deep or frequent mud.

Other minor things I've noticed:
1) Passenger window non functional, could be switch or motor?
2) Dash bulb behind left side of speedo out
3) Doesn't want to engage 2L, jumps out of gear

Are these doable DIY jobs for someone with limited skill and tools or best left to a mechanic?
 

If the passenger window doesn't work it's probably the child interlock on the drivers side buttons has been engaged, it's the little square one in front of the 2 toggles.

Selecting low box 
Are you pushing down on the stick
Could be the stick catching bodywork 
This can happen if truck has a body lift
Remove the rubber gator and see what's happening 
2low is not an option unless have manual locking hubs[leave in un locked position] 
Or put a switch in to turn off the vacuum 

I have never heard of replacing brake drums because they were rusty.

Indeed with your indicated use cases, I'm not sure why you would have any interest in spending any time/money on the brakes at all, let alone for cosmetic changes.

My opinion: cross the rear brakes off your to-do list.

Gave it a go, but no joy. Window locking button in either position, passenger window unresponsive from either seat. Maybe it is that switch at fault, or the motor. I'll investigate further