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Okay, I took it back to the garage today with the expectation that they were going to try to initially try to get exhaust off at the manifold again ( I’d sprayed releasing oil on the bolts several times) and if not, then cut it to see if the power returned. But, they did the latter only, fitting a sleeve to cover the hole afterwards. They said they’d heated the bolts with oxy acetylene previously and they wouldn’t budge so didn’t bother trying. After cutting a slight hole in the exhaust they took it for a noisy test drive but didn’t feel it had any more power. However I’m not sure if they understood how little power the Jimny has in the first place. They thought the next step would be a compression test or more expensive engine checks.
I’m reasonably convinced that their initial suggestion of a blocked cat is the issue but am not sure where to go from here, especially if the exhaust front pipe to manifold bolts won’t undo, so they’ll likely snap if worked on further. Access to drill out a snapped bolt looks tricky. The manifold heat shield bolts also look rusty so might be the same.
this happened to mine going up a steep road to the bilsdale transmitter on the N york moors. 1st cat off manifold disintegrated like lambert says and blocked my new exhaust. AA bloke was a top man (ex peugeot wrx rally team mech)
we smashed everything out of the new pipe too to get her going. so just as it
happens i have the manifold cat and the 2nd pipe in my jimny outside if you want em, i,m selling her anyway due to rust, engine 1.6 on fleabay and here. calll me if you want em 07782333852
Thanks for the reply and offer Liam. I’m however slightly confused with the wording used. Are you referring to an early G13BB SOHC exhaust manifold and cat or a later Jimny as they’re seemingly not compatible, or the one from your 1600cc engine, as that’s likely to not be compatible either?
Having visited three separate garages, the car is now repaired with a new catalytic converter fitted. It was apparently a pig to get the old bolts out. I’m not sure it’s back up to full power but it’s certainly massively better than it was. When under load on a steep hill I can still hear a slight hissing as if it’s still leaking from the exhaust manifold joint so am hoping the new down pipe to manifold joint just needs a bit more tightening.
We just fitted new front brake pads too. We have discovered that one of the rear brake cylinders has a slight weep so will get that replaced. It’s strange but we were aware of a drop in fluid but hadn’t found the leak before. Are there differences in quality of new cylinders? I’ve seen prices from £11 to £35 on eBay, £75 from Suzuki. I’ve also seen them in the Jimny shop and have a query made with Martin.
We still have a problem with the handbrake sticking on when parked for a while. I don’t think it’s very good anyway but a while ago asked a garage to check it when it was in for something else. Since then it’s been sticking on. Our drive is on a slope and when I release the handbrake to drive away each time, the car doesn’t move. If I put it in gear and drive away it then releases with a slight bang from the drivers side rear wheel. I’ve had two garages look at it but both said they didn’t find anything wrong. Any suggestions?
The car now has two new brake cylinders on the back, necessitating a replacement pipe too due to issues in fitting.
The garage couldn’t find anything wrong with the handbrake, re sticking on, either on the last visit or this one. It was stuck on what seems like the rear right when we collected it both times so I assume it needs to be parked for a little while. They obviously had the drums off when fitting the new brake cylinders but apparently didnt spot any issues. Is a sticking handbrake something experienced by anyone and what’s the solution please
My non-Jimny-specific experience with sticking handbrakes is that it is nearly always down to lubrication. The fix would be to lubricate the cables, and also the operating arms at the business end.
For the former, I usually find that putting a certain amount of silicone (ie liquid) lubricant down the cables is good enough.
For the latter, I would recommend copper-based grease and a certain amount of cleaning/disassembly if you are inclined to fix the problem once and for all. Or, if you don't want to invest the time, a few very sparing drops of oil on the brake operating arm at the backplate might help -- though you run a risk anytime you get liquid lubricant near brake shoes, so be very careful if you go that route.
I don't think anything will need replacing, if that is your concern-- seized or broken parts would present different symptoms.
