ABS light after instrument cluster replacement - Car does not have ABS!!

Hi Guys,
I am slowly working through the growing list of problems that my ’05 Jimny has, and this one flummoxed me.. I just today received a replacement dash instrument cluster from a wreckers to replace mine which had a problem where the engine light, oil light and ABS light were dead, but the brake light was on all the time.
The new cluster comes from a slightly newer jimny however was completely identical otherwise and plugged/screwed straight into the car.
When I turn the engine on now, I am seeing the engine light (expected, EGR fault) but also the ABS light is on. The problem here is that my car (as far as I can tell) does not have ABS. There is no ABS module in the engine bay, and despite smashing the brakes as hard as I could on an e-stop test I couldn’t trigger the ABS (or lock the wheels which is slightly concerning). 

Is there anything I can do to get the ABS warning light to turn off????

One of the upgrades I want to do is to put disc brakes on the rear using the kit from the jimny store and the Renault Megane calipers. Am I right in thinking this should be fine without ABS???

I'm trying to picture the back of the cluster? I assume you have done a side by side examination with your old one to compare bulb positions? Abs was only an option then. The fool proof way is to look at the inside of the wheel hubs for sensor wiring.

THanks for your reply.
The two units were pin perfect matches, and I have also double checked that the old one had the ABS light in the module, even though it did not turn on.
There is definitely no ABS on the vehicle as there is no ABS control module under the hood, abs control lines or ABS sensor wiring…

It’s interesting that even though the ABS hardware isn’t in the vehicle, all the computers for the ABS are in there. This probably means that it’s doing brake light checks on vehicle start and if the previous owner had changed them to LED bulbs and not put the resistors in parallel that the brake light fault is being triggered. Unfortunatey I ony have a basic OBD reader so cannot access ABS controller stuff. I can see other controllers on the OBD line, but have no info what the values are…

EDIT: What I thought was the ABS computer diagnostic port was just a blue relay… So there is no ABS and no ABS computer...

Ok scratch that idea. Just opened up the brake light and other than some of the sketchiest wiring I have _ever_ seen, the bulbs are definitely an incandescent type… Anyone have any clues as to what else the ABS monitors?

If your car doesn't have ABS, I see no issue with removing the bulb.  MOT testers won't check the warning light works on a car that was clearly built without ABS.

It’s more that I don’t want the light on… Vehicle is already roadworthy.

Also what I thought was the ABS test port (without glasses on) was just a blue relay… so there really isn’t an ABS module.

I was wondering if the instrument panel might have its own CPU inside which is expecting an ABS module and lighting up because there isn’t one there, but surely it’s just a dumb panel...

Hmm ok seems there _is_ a CPU on the dash instruments… 

I think I have found a solution - it involves putting a smalll piece of tape over the ABS light.

The worst type of hack, but perfect for this car...

Hi Guys,
I wasn’t happy with the tape, so I have decided to dig deeper.
In the electrical drawings, it shows that the ABS controller sends an ABS controller status signal to the instrument cluster in a RED/BLUE wire from plug E142 pin 14 to plug G92 Pin 10. My next plan of attack is to mimic the signal a working ABS controller sends to the instrument cluster at pin 10 on G92...
I was wondering if anyone knows (or can test on a vehicle with ABS) what the signal for ’STATUS OK’ is (i.e. ABS controller working, no faults) on PIN 10 of G92. It would be easy to assume it’s either 0v or 12V but given it’s a CPU output direct to another CPU, it could be 5v or a square wave or who knows…
Thanks guys!

actually first plan will be to pull apart the broken cluster and see if there is a jumper/solder connection that might be used when there is no ABS controller in which case I can just make the same modification to the new cluster.
I will let y’all know what I find.