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Split pin or Nyloc?

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04 Jul 2023 03:57 #249691 by mlines
Split pin or Nyloc? was created by mlines
On my gen3 Jimny all the tie rod ends are fitted with Nyloc nuts

On the SJ they are all fitted with castellated nuts and split pins. Every single split pin needed cutting or drilling out due to corrosion. Is there any specific reason to stick with split pin or can I just use Nyloc?

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Martin

2003 M13 early KAP build.
3" Trailmaster lift with 1.5 Spacers on front
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235/85R16 Maxxis Bighorns on 16" Rims, 4:1 Rocklobster, Rear ARB locker and on-board air
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04 Jul 2023 04:46 #249692 by yakuza
Replied by yakuza on topic Split pin or Nyloc?
I cannot remember having to drill or cut any split pin my SJ's. Hammer them out sometimes though.
But most of them was demounted 15 years ago.
A nyloc nut can also rust.

But no reason other than that a nyloc is not period correct.
As long as you do not reuse nylocs they will do the job. Nylocs are a one time use only item.

Norway 2005 Jimny M16A VVT, 235 BFG MT, 2" Trailmaster, ARB rear lck, 17%/87% high/low gears.

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04 Jul 2023 05:02 #249695 by Lambert
Replied by Lambert on topic Split pin or Nyloc?
If the ball joint is drilled to accept pins I would stick with that. However most replacement ones are not so you are left with nylon as the option. I would be looking for pinned ones though, more factory correct.

Temeraire (2018 quasar grey automatic)
One of the last 200ish of the gen3s, probably.
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04 Jul 2023 09:41 #249699 by Scimike
Replied by Scimike on topic Split pin or Nyloc?
I am of the same opinion, if the ball joint is drilled for a split pin stick with that, just coat in a wax of your choice after fitting.
Other tips are fit a split pin with some movement ( not the largest) or fit stainless steel pins.

If you go nylock you need to ensure you have enough fully formed thread exposed once fitted, something the drilled joint may not provide.

All this aside its factory correct, this is a big thing on a restoration.

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