Replacement Key Fob - Done!

Sometimes soaking the buttons on the pcb with electrical component cleaner then pressing the button fast for a few seconds helps.

Also, those with intermittant faults after changing the battery, try bending the springy contacts that contact the battery slightly.

I had not got round to checking this again, as the key is basically working, but this piqued my interest, so I stripped the key down. Both switches had some sticky green gunk on from somewhere so I cleaned that off. I noticed the (working) button for me clicked properly, but the (less-working) button did not have a click, but the whole button housing moved. Looking closer I could see that 2 of the solder connections had broken, and there was no movement in the no-longer protruding button nib. So, it appears that the switch may actually be permanently closed, but electrical contact is only made when pushing down on the button which moves the whole housing, closing the open solder connections!! I cleaned the gunk up again, and now the switch works a lot better, at least for now.

You may be able to see the broken connections on the 2 closest connection on the left-hand SW2 switch in this very-poor photo...

I am reluctant to solder the broken joints as I may end up with a permanently-pressed switch. It is working for now, but I think I may try buying one of the replacement keys from ebay. I can keep the old key blade and immobiliser, and hopefully the circuit board is purely for the remote locking. Then all I would need to do is pair the new electronics to my remote locking. I found various posts here and elsewhere and this seems to be the only sequence I can find for my 2007. Does anyone know if this is correct? I obviously have the current key electronics as well, which I can use if there is another sequence that needs one already-working key

1) Confirm that the vehicle is the following conditions.
• All doors are closed.
• Ignition key is out of ignition switch.
• Driver side door is unlocked.
2) Disconnect negative (-) cable from battery.
3) After 30 seconds, perform the following procedure within 60
seconds.
a) Connect negative (-) cable to battery.
b) Operate driver side door knob switch from lock to unlock.
c) Push “LOCK” button on transmitter and confirm that are
operated from lock to unlock.
d) Push driver side door knob switch to lock position.
e) Push “LOCK” button on transmitter twice and confirm that
all doors are operated from unlock to lock. With this, code
registration is completed.


Nick

I am aware this is a ford key fob remote, But if you get brave enought to get the soldering iron out, The principles are the same.

Thanks Jezz - he makes it look easy in that video!!

I have ordered this key to replace the remote-locking internals of my current key (hopefully the middle assembly will just drop in the original key case. That leaves me the opportunity to try my hand at replacing those tact switches with new ones! I give myself a 50% chance of destroying the PCB, so fingers crossed!!

Nick

What a good tutorial!

(yes he makes it look easy but I dont imagine it can be that difficult.... Can it?)

Hello all, my fob knackered over a year ago and I've been using the large spare to lock the door manually, be good to use remote key again though, the outside casing is all broken and the re soldered battery contacts are shot at, am I right in thinking after reading this thread if I buy a new key I can just drop the inards in the old key that fits the ignition and it will work without re coding it? last time I read up on it it would need coding and cost a fortune so I went with solid key, cheers guys good thread.